Pinchos Yourself at Bar Code

It’s usually a bit of a cop-out to begin a restaurant review by commenting on its name, but Bar Code? Bafflingly, it’s not a “Chinglish” blooper. A flashy logo of wine bottles lined up supermarket scanner-style shows that the folks in charge meant the joke, tragically.

Taking over where Spanish restaurant Mosaico left off, the new management has put much of the emphasis on wine, shifting the culinary focus to reflect their Basque roots.

This means pinchos – essentially tasty, tapas-type things like jamon iberico and smoked salmon on toast. The roasted piquillo peppers with sardines (RMB 38) was a great flavor combo, and a big portion for the price. The beef tenderloin with blue cheese sauce (RMB 38) was similarly generous – though disappointingly, the wickedly pungent cheese and good bread was betrayed by overdone beef. So close.

Garlic prawns (RMB 58), recommended by the English-speaking waitress, didn’t disappoint. A tuna pie (RMB 22) was nicely spiced and seasoned, but the soft pastry spoke of hurried reheating. I also didn’t care for the thematic criss-cross drizzle of tar-hued balsamic vinegar on most dishes – such earthy fare doesn’t need sexing up.

Bar Code is certainly a treat for serious oenophiles. The boss, a wine importer, has sourced an impressive list of Spanish rosé, aperitifs and sweet wines (RMB 180 and up). There are sections for Spanish “new wave” wines and “classic” Spanish wines, with Rioja firmly in charge. But if drinking isn’t your thing, there’s probably not quite enough on offer here to drag you away from the Spanish restaurants around Sanlitun.

Standout dishes: Pinchos, garlic prawns
Also try: Olé Spanish Restaurant, Carmen

Bar Code
Daily 3pm-midnight. World City (north of The Place), 10 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (8590 7855)
朝阳区东大桥路10号世界城商业街（世贸天阶北面）

Photos courtesy of Bar Code.