First Glance: Goemon, Chaodou Hutong
Located just around the corner from the abject maelstrom of Nanluogu Xiang, Goemon is a peaceful haven in this otherwise touristy area.
Goemon's unmarked store front gives way to a simple space with bar seating, one small four top, and a tatami area upstairs. The two page menu, in Japanese and Chinese only, is equally simple - just udon, hot pot, cold starters, some yakitori, and a small selection of beer and sake (ps. RMB 15 Asahi draft beer).
The aforementioned udon and hot pot can be ordered three ways: "white" (creamy sauce), "black" (soy-based sauce), and "red" (spicy). The "black" udon noodles are classic wok-charred yaki udon with chicken and cabbage, finished with a final sprinkle of bonito flakes and a squeeze of mayonnaise. You don't want mayonnaise on your noodles? Don't knock it 'til you've tried it.
On a recent lunchtime visit, we also ordered the Japanese-style cold tofu (RMB 10, 日式冷豆腐) and a couple of pork neck swekers (RMB 8 each, 猪颈肉). A solid lunch, and a solid addition to the Naluogu Xiang area.
Goemon
Daily 11am-10pm. 73 Chaodou Hutong, Dongcheng District (188 0140 9504)
五石卫门:东城区炒豆胡同73号
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Photos: Robynne Tindall