Shang Xia: Hermes' Chinese Label Is Understated Class

Renowned fashion house Hermès has a penchant for finding designers who avoid the spotlight: Martin Margiela, who has never been photographed and communicates via fax; Kermit Oliver, the reclusive Texan postman whose Americana tableaux number among Hermes’ most collected silk scarves; and Zhang Da, the mysterious designer behind the clothing line for Shang Xia, its Chinese label. Hermès has always celebrated quiet, deep craftsmanship – and Shang Xia does not waver from that mission.

Think of their new Beijing store as a gallery of craft (in cashmere felt, eggshell porcelain, purple sandalwood and bamboo marquetry) where simplicity holds sway in the ornate details. The collection, which ranges from porcelain tea sets to furniture to cashmere Mao jackets, is composed of understated classic pieces that use traditional Chinese elements in unexpected ways. (A section of the boutique itself is made of bricks of condensed pu’er tea leaves.)

With this powerful debut in Beijing, Shang Xia has shown that quality and innovation outshine fame and flashbulbs. Even recluses will want to emerge for this.

Shang Xia 上下 Daily 10am-9.30pm. Unit SB-107B, 1/F, Bldg 1, China World Mall Phase 1, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (6505 7358) 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城1期地下1层SB-107B号

By subway: 100m from Guomao station (Lines 1 and 10)