Saveurs de Coree: Seoul Survivor

For the next year or so, you’re bound to see a few tourists loitering at 29 Nanluogu Xiang, staring dumbly, hungrily, at an abandoned shell. If only they knew to walk 500 meters east for the Korean fix they seek. But they don’t – not until the next edition of their guidebook appears.

This longstanding tourist favorite – and winner of “Best Korean” in the Beijinger’s 2011 Reader Restaurant Awards – has relocated from a choice perch to a challenging one. And yet it’s hardly moved at all. That’s one problem, but unfortunately it’s not the only one. The breezily hip interior seems to have been designed without a thought for human ergonomics. Boxy tables sit three at a squeeze on hard, shelf-like benches or pod-shaped stools, with zero legroom and no back rests.

The new sell is barbecue. In keeping with Saveurs’ well-earned reputation for careful sourcing, the beef is free-range Wagyu stock from Dalian. Smokeless grills can be loaded with cow ranging from bavette steak (RMB 89 for 150g) to premium rump (RMB 209 for 150g), as well as pork, chicken, seafood and veggies. Flavors are fine, but portions are petite; order a few types of meat and you’ll rapidly rack up quite a bill.

For a quick lunch, the organic bibimbap is a colorful bowlful (RMB 49); to get more bang for your buck, try the toothsome shin ramyun (RMB 49) – noodle soup with prawn, clam and squid, chilli-spiked and rich with fish stock.
The food here largely delivers; it’s the concept that seems flawed. Posh Korean barbecue – for couples – in a hipster-hutong setting … What on earth do you wear for that date?

Standout dishes: Mixed beef platter, shin ramyun
Also try: Ai Jiang Shan, Shuijing Kao Rou

Saveurs de Coree
Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng District (5741 5753)
东城区香饵胡同128-1号

Photos: Tom O’Malley