“Ya’ll Got This, Beijing,” Says Shanghai Cocktail Star Lu Yao, Ahead of End of Month Visit

Kyle Mullin | Nov 21, 2018 1:00 pm | Add a comment | 2089 reads

He may be the mastermind behind famed Shanghai bar Union Trading, but Lu Yao is no enemy to Beijing’s cocktail scene. Even though many cocktail patrons gripe about the Pearl City’s options being miles ahead of the capital’s, Lu has a much more nuanced and balanced take, not unlike the delicious cocktails that helped Union Trading earn a spot on the highly coveted Worlds 50 Best Bars list.

Ahead of his Nov 27-28 guest shift at the Park Hyatt hotel in Beijing’s CBD, the seasoned mixologist gives us some insider knowledge on what makes a cocktail scene worth raising a glass to, what South Asian spices he plans to incorporate in his drinks during the guest shift, and why following trends isn't for him.

How did you get your start as a bartender?
I majored in hotel and restaurant management at the University of Houston. Originally I needed to not only pay for school but also gain work experience. A bartending job was available at a major hotel at the time, so I started there. After a while I fell in love with the job and started working at Anvil Bar & Refuge, now considered to be one of the most influential cocktail bars in the world. That is where I learned everything I know today about bartending, hospitality and operation.

Union Trading is famous for its barrel-aged cocktails. What first inspired you to explore this cocktail making method?
It wasn't an original concept, at the time I was inspired by Jefferey Morganthaler from Clide Common, Portland where he did a series of barrel-aged classic cocktails. By barrel aging cocktails, you’re adding a beautiful layer of depth, creating a much richer flavor within the cocktail.

We use a solera system, the same type of system used to age sherry and rotate aging anywhere between four to eight weeks depending on the cocktail. We decided instead of aging classic cocktails, which a lot of bars have been doing for years: “Why not create cocktails for the specific purpose of being aged?” And hence our five house cocktails in barrels.

What new ingredients or recipes have you been exploring lately?
My job allows me the opportunity to travel around the world, so it's always fun to see what local ingredients are available there and experiment. I recently took a trip to Mumbai and with India being the heaven of spices, we went to town at local spice markets. One of the drinks featured on my guest menu here in Beijing heavily utilizes Indian flavors and spices such as green cardamom, cinnamon and turmeric.

What do you think will be the big new cocktail trends in 2019?
I don't follow cocktail trends. They are called trends for a reason, they come and go. I always stick to good old fashioned hospitality, fun and tasty cocktails with seasonal ingredients. None of the so-called trends concern me.

Many lounge lizards in Beijing complain that the cocktail scene here is lacklustre in comparison to Shanghai's. Do you think Beijing's cocktail scene is improving? How would you compare both cities in this regard?
Look, I hate comparing cities in terms of any type of culture. I never find anywhere better or worse, but just different. When people like to complain about why certain trends are not hitting certain parts of the country, we have to ask ourselves: “Is the market ready?” “Whats the social dynamic of the city?” “What are peoples drinking habits?” “What are the zoning laws, and how much support is the F&B industry getting from local communities and the government?”

I believe every city has its own unique scene of bars, and as long as the bars are diverse enough, provides genuine hospitality, with good people in the driver's seat, it's really all the industry needs. Beijing's an incredible city with incredible people. Y’all got this.

Catch Up On all of Our Nightlife Coverage here.

Lu Yao of Shanghai’s Union Trading will be serving drinks at the Park Hyatt hotel’s China Bar in Beijing’s CBD on Nov 27 and 28 starting at 8pm both nights. For more information, click here.