An Old Favorite of Japanese Expats, Bar Roost Serves Up Classic Cocktails With a Twist

Huh? A tequila Negroni? Sure, why not?

It's a question I never thought I'd ask myself, but one that Bar Roost was happy to oblige. The nookish Japanese-style speakeasy – tucked in the back of a building near Xinyuanli (not far from QMex and Bottega's new locations) – has an entire page dedicated to tequila-based cocktails. Their "Tegroni" (RMB 100 per glass) is made with a long pour of Jose Cuervo, along with more conventional Negroni ingredients like Campari and Dolin vermouth. It's not for the faint of heart, being so bitter and potent that even the most hardened of barflies will be left a little wobbly and bleary after reaching the bottom of the glass. Those of us who like our drinks stiff, with creative twists, will appreciate the unique combination and how the sturdy flavors complement each other.

That cocktail is one of a few inventive flourishes that spice up the proceedings at a joint long known as a stable mainstay. For years, Bar Roost has been quietly run out of this locale, catering to a Japanese clientele from the nearby embassy. Those customers from the Land of the Rising Sun come time and again for the whisky selection (including 12-year-old Hakushu single malt for RMB 130 per glass, ten-year-old Yamazaki single malt for RMB 200 per glass, and 17-year-old Hibiki for RMB 260 per glass) manager Gao Peng's polished demeanor (bowtie et all), and, likely above all, the convenient location to their embassy and the area's range of Japanese businesses. 

Some of the whiskys are quite steeply priced but not overly so, given the quality and range on offer. The cocktails are on par with most other speakeasies around town. The menu has a page dedicated to brandy-based cocktails listing about a dozen options, and the same goes for the menu's vodka, rum, gin, and whisky-based cocktail pages. 

Like the service and the whisky selection, the bar's ambiance also hems to Japanese styles. It's a narrow venue, with plenty of woodgrain, muted lights, and soft music. A subdued, sophisticated spot to be sure. In fact, it reminded me a bit of the Hotaru cocktail bar just across the street, though the service was more prompt and the drinks more distinctive and memorable, making me think that the newer nearby bar is a bit of a subpar imitation of Bar Roost.

Its Sanlitun counterparts, meanwhile, are flashier and have cocktails that will tickle your tastebuds to a greater degree. It also falls short of Mokihi, which is housed in the somewhat nearby Liangmaqiao area. But that's not a major condemnation, considering very few Beijing bars can reach Mokihi's heights of deliciousness and top-notch service. Despite all that, Bar Roost is still a sturdy choice (more so than far more generic competitors nearby – here's looking at you Hotaru and Gin House), meaning you could certainly do worse in this neighborhood. Better still: Bar Roost's proximity to QMex and Bottega makes it a prime spot for a stiff, potent, flavorful nightcap after you get your grub on at one of those restaurants. The venue's clearly genuine stabs at Japanese authenticity also ring true and are sure to charm patrons, whether they be unfamiliar or seasoned regulars, making Bar Roost a distant second to Mokihi, but nevertheless superior to the area's other options.

So there's room to grow, but nothing to scoff at with Bar Roost, making it more than worthy of raising a glass of Tegroni and toasting to.   

Bar Roost
Daily, 7.30pm-1.30am. Xinyuanli No.19 Class Fotel Floor 1 (8448 2131)
新源里19号格纳斯主题酒店1层

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Photos: Kyle Mullin