Mango Mojo: Bringing the Tropics to You

The dessert parlor known as Hui Lau Shan hails from Hong Kong, where the mangoes are plump and juicy. Its Beijing branches don’t pack the same tropical tra-la-la as their southern sisters, but they’re good enough to tide you over between visa runs. Our location of choice is in the basement of U-Town at Chaoyangmen.

Cantonese mango desserts are a showcase for the fruit’s versatility. I’m particularly fond of the interplay between mango and pomelo, mediated by tiny globes of sago (RMB 38), though the sourness of the pomelo can depend on the luck of the draw. Alternatively, variations with coconut milk or coconut ice cream are as smooth as a well-lotioned pickup artist. A mango platter (RMB 42) offers a selection of three different versions, but each portion is tiny.

Those who aren’t feeling the fruit love can opt for the intense nuttiness of a sesame or almond soup (RMB 12). Maybe you’ll come to love them both equally, in which case you can get a half-order of each warming soup, like an edible Yin-Yang symbol. There’s also coconut pudding with red bean or black glutinous rice (RMB 12). I’m usually wary of black sticky rice, but it works for me when tucked into this pudding.

Chinese desserts tend to be a love-or-hate affair, so this isn’t for everyone. However, if you’re on Team Mango, gather up a few like-minded souls for a trip.

Hui Lau Shan 许留山 Daily 10am-10pm. B1/F, U-Town Shopping Center, 2 Sanfeng Beili, Chaoyang District (131 4654 8259) 朝阳区三丰北里2号悠唐生活广场地下 1层

By subway: 900m southeast of Chaoyangmen station (Lines 2 & 6)

This article originally appeared on page 30 of the January issue of the Beijinger.