BJ Burger Wars: Pete’s Tex-Mex Vs Big Boss Fish & Chips

Our protein wagon is Lido-bound this week, to pit Beijing’s much-liked Pete’s Tex-Mex against a raw newcomer to the scene – Big Boss Fish & Chips, which, despite the name, has only one ‘fish and chips’ option but about ten burgers on its menu. Yup, it’s Burger (Vs) Burger, err, Tuesdays, again folks. You know the drill by now.

In the red corner: Texas Whopper (w/cheese), Pete’s Tex Mex, RMB 57.

The brief. Just like my pappy used to make. Well, at least he would have if he’d lived in Texas and not Tunbridge Wells. A good-looking sandwich. And take a gander at all that gooey yellow cheese, like the billowing blonde mane of a camp cowboy. But crinkle-cut fries? Seriously?

The bite. It’s a sloppy, juicy, succulent mouthful. Unusual, seeded bun has nice flavor, not cakey, and lots of juiciness from all the ingredients and sauce.

The beef. Another thin, wide patty. Looks well-done but still juicy with a bit of outside charring. A nice grain but saltiness off the scale especially combined with the cheese.

The bits. Gherkin slices, tomato, raw onion and a single green lettuce leaf (not iceberg). Textbook.

Harmonious society. I thought this baby would hold together well, and then five minutes later I dug myself out of a pile of gooey burger stuff, gasping for air. Knife and fork might come in handy, put it that way.

Fries? Crinkle-cut. Nothing spesh.

Next…

In the blue corner: Cheese burger, Big Boss Fish & Chips, RMB 58.

The brief. Good first impression. Rectangular plate, small heap of hand-cut fries, and a bun topped with three neat grill marks sitting on a deep, rough-grained (obviously hand-formed) patty.

The bite. Hmmm. Secret sauce is kind of like a mayonnaise-y Thousand Island. It dominates, together with the saltiness of cheap-value bacon. Bread OK. But the beef zai nar?

The beef. What looks a bit special is in fact a bit of a disaster. The patty comprises finely ground meat with nothing to bind it, crumbling away into tiny pieces as you try to pick up the burger. Not very beefy either, with a strong onion taste. Fail.

The bits. All burgers come with an egg (glad I told them I didn’t want it). And why bother with bacon if it’s the lowest-grade money can buy? Just tastes nasty. Then the usual tomato, raw onion, big hunks of unwieldy iceberg. And too much sweet sauce of dubious origin.

Harmonious society. No.

Fries? They look hand-cut and taste like the kind of fries you get in a youth hostel in Thailand. Tasty, but obviously cooked by someone who’s first language isn’t French (or 'merican). And served cold, too.

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Obvious result, this. I heard that Pete’s Tex Mex started as a breakaway from Grandma’s Kitchen, which had me worried. But this is a much better burger than Grandma’s, with a decent quality patty assembled with care – if just a little too salty and unstable. Conversely, the Big Boss is anything but, at least with his beef offerings. If you’re gonna hand-craft your own patties, at least come up with a recipe that works.

Verdict: Pete’s Tex Mex wins it

Next time: Shuangjing sluggers – Lily’s Vs Grinders (we promise) In the mean time, keep your mouth watering by reviewing our previous burger battles ...

Heat 1: The Box Versus Vineyard Cafe

Heat 2: Union Bar & Grille Versus Flamme

Heat 3: First Floor Versus Luga's

Heat 4: Let's Burger Versus Blue Frog

Heat 5: Village Cafe Versus Scarlett

Heat 6: Grandma's Kitchen Versus Paul's Steak & Eggs

* All opinions expressed are those of an Englishman who once went to In-&-Out in LA (he didn’t even know about the secret menu, hah) and now has the gall to write this stuff.