Capital Bites: Previewing Back Alley Bistro's Menu, Ordos Restaurant, Changes and Openings

Our team's got sores on our feet from running around town ... all so you can have the latest news. This week, we checked out Ordos Restaurant, got a sneak peek at Back Alley Bistro's new menu, tried new menus at Barolo at the Ritz-Carlton and Sureño at The Opposite House, and staked out steak at The Loop and not-steak at Kiwi Fish N Chips.

Ordos Restaurant has been open since the end of last year, but we've only just sniffed it out recently, possibly because it's near the National Library in Haidian. But it's quite the experience: lamb chops, amazing steak cubes and singing and dancing by some of the nation's best Mongolian performers. We'll have a longer review for you in the September issue of the magazine, so keep an eye out.

Jeff Powell was aiming for his new California cuisine restaurant, Back Alley Bistro, to open by August 15. But he's been called away for some business, so the date's shifting to early September. We got a peek at their new menu, and we're excited. Jeff's had a hand in many of the great menus around town, Flamme and Gung Ho! among them (and of course the lip-smacking burgers at Frost), but this time around he's presenting items he's held back from his earlier consulting projects. Some highlights: a Back Alley Bistro Sandwich with crispy soft shell crab, pancetta, avocado and herbed aioli on a ciabatta roll; smoked tofu and goat cheese beignets; chicken under a brick; and two kinds of farinata chickpea crepes. [Rubbing hands together eagerly with greedy gleam in eye.]

We tried the new menu at Barolo last week, and greatly enjoyed the huge, crispy prawn pictured above. It was a take on sweet and sour with a thin drizzle of a sugary glaze, matched with what can only be described as citrus chips. One of the freshest shrimp I've had in Beijing. But since I tend to like my food on the more savory end, I'll give a shout-out to their classic beef carpaccio with shaved truffles. That dish was good. My poor colleague, the one who'd ordered it, had to fend me off with his fork. Repeatedly. The squid-ink crabmeat pasta was also fantastic, perfectly al dente, smoky and with generous heaps of shredded crab.

That same night, I tried Sureño's new summer menu. I know, I know, it's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it. There were quite a few standouts here, too. For the starters, the lamb cigar (minced lamb rolled up in phyllo dough) was a hit, especially since I'm still learning to enjoy lamb when it's not attached to a bone. We also loved the little pot of chorizo and fava beans. We loved several of the pastas (a briny sea urchin spaghetti with shaved bottarga included), but the gnocchi with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella was a dream come true, with melt-in-your-mouth potato dumplings and good simple flavors. If hotel dining's a bit rich for your blood, keep in mind that Sureño's pizza prices are competitive with other more authentic spots in town (i.e. La Pizza, Tavola), and there's always dessert. Our suggestion: strawberries marinated in balsamic served with mascarpone (see photo, top). Quickly – before they stop serving it.

In other news, the Godiva cafe at Sanlitun Village is nearing completion and will open September 5 at the latest. The Nespresso coffee shop is open. They're literally a coffee shop, as in, they sell machines and the little cartridges, with tasting sessions and the like, but they're not really serving drinks.

We've also got reviews of The Loop and Kiwi Fish N Chips on the blog for you, with more details in the next issue of the Beijinger. The Loop is very promising indeed. Sadly, Kiwi Fish N Chips' actual fried-fish-and-potatoes enterprise seems a little dead in the water, as they only have snapper (non-battered) and they've said they're expanding the menu, but with neither fish nor chips. Go drown your sorrows in the beer batter at Brussels.

Southern Barbarian over on Baochao Hutong soft-opens tomorrow night (the owner wanted the magical 8/8 in full effect), which means they'll be serving part of their food and drinks menu. Full service starts at the beginning of September.

If you haven't already seen our blog about it, you should also note that there's a chance to win RMB 1,000 to spend at Hatsune, plus you'll get your mug in a Hatsune ad. Find out more here or at Lumdimsum's blog here.

And if you're looking for one last summer adventure, there's always trying to grill your own chuanr ...

Photos: Marilyn Mai