Moji Mexican Restaurant Brings a Splash of Color and Homemade Taco Charm to Topwin Center
Is Beijing's Mexican game reaching saturation point? We're just about getting to the point where the pang for tacos can be easily met, with a handful of solid options to relieve you of your immediate need. Though a visit to Moji Mexican Restaurant is a humbler affair to that of a few of the city's more established Mexican haunts, its homespun charm and convenient location in Sanlitun's Topwin Center earmark it as a decent lunch or low-key dinner spot.
In fact, this branch isn't the restaurant's first. Moji got its start down in Shuangjing, with a branch that has quietly existed for over six months. This expansion to Topwin is likely to see it build a more diverse fanbase, which it deserves given that it's ostensibly a project of love by owner Gao "Javier" Yuan, a Harbin native who after moving to study in Mexico discovered a fondness for the local grub. In his own words: "Mexican food has similar qualities to Chinese food in that it is enjoyed all around the world." After moving back to China he recruited the help of his old buddy and head chef Rogelio Gamboa, who braced for the cold and made the trip out East.
Other than the odd abberation ("classic" clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl?), the food here is authentic. Gao is quick to point out that the restaurant's corn tacos are made fresh daily using the traditional nixtamalization method, a 2,500-year-old process for corn preparation that increases nutritional value, flavor, and aroma. As such, they are one of the highlights here and are sturdy, fluffy, and just flavorful enough to complement the fillings within.
Our combination of three: beef, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork), and slow-roasted lamb (RMB 62) were well-balanced and decently portioned though we did find the chicken a little dry and the pork a little too heavy on the cinnamon. Again, the corn tacos stole the show but were sadly no able to save the sole vegetarian option: mushroom tacos, which proved a little too sloppy. Other varieties include spicy chicken, beef potato, mushroom, al pastor (pineapple and chicken), and sausage (RMB 52-68) all with burrito and quesadilla equivalents. We would strongly recommend trying not to fill up on the nachos beforehand (good luck).
One dish that you won't find elsewhere among Beijing's Mexican restaurant set is the baked crab with achiote (RMB 238) which comes in a homely baking dish and topped with a sprinkling of cheese and coriander. Achiote, for those unfamiliar, is not only used as a natural food dye thanks to its bright crimson hue, but also has a deep, nutty, and almost intoxicating taste and one that pairs well with the shredded crab and peppers in this dish. Scoop up the mixture with the accompanying tortilla chips and await the gentle, slow burn to take effect.
In all, Moji still has a few teething problems – service time being probably the biggest – but their move to Sanlitun is a promising development and the care put into the proceedings is more than apparent. For that reason, we'll certainly be back in the near future once their drinks offerings have expanded so that we can munch on their fine tacos into the night.
In case you've missed it, Topwin Center is buzzing with new venues and bars. Check them all out, right here.
Moji Mexican Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-11pm. 2/F, Topwin Center, Gongti Stadium North Road, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District (177 1009 8626)
朝阳区三里屯工体育场北路三里屯通盈中心2层
Photos courtesy of Moji Mexican Restaurant, Tom Arnstein
