Huge Cocktail Bar Inception Impresses in Its Scope on Xingfucun

I have to admit that I have mixed feelings about Inception. No, not the mindbending 2010 Christopher Nolan-directed sci-fi thriller, but the new, rather swanky and massive cocktail bar on Xingfucun.

Why? Well, first it is right next door to Great Leap Brewing's now defunct #12 brewpub in Ziming Mansion, which was forced to close back in May on account of the space being barred from housing “any and all food and beverage services.” So we guess cocktail bars don't count? Second, it has replaced one of our favorite go-to Korean restaurants in the area. Yet, despite these two conundrums, what we found awaiting us at Inception is a huge, well-decorated, and attention-to-detail-laden cocktail bar that is certainly trying to woo us. And woo us it has.

Upon first inspection, the venue is reminiscent of Nansanlitun Lu's longstanding whiskey bar Glen, thanks to its thick velvet curtains, emerald velvet booths, and purplish red leather armchairs that are spread throughout the bar's front room. That ambitious design is unmatched by any of Inception's sister establishments in renowned local cocktail proprietor Xiao Ming's sprawling lounge empire, with even the elegant and spacious Róng bar paling in comparison.

Making your way into the back, the space divides into two bars: one for wine, with two-dozen selections, and the other brimming with whiskey. The dark wood and leather-bound bars are surrounded by high swivel chairs fit for hours of lounging, chandeliers directly above, and a glass hatch that leads down into a wine cellar below. There are also a number of cubbies adorned with artworks like Gauguin's "Spirit of the Dead Watching", because, you know, this is a cultured drinking hole after all and the ceiling-spanning Renaissance painting in the front room is even more ambitious. There is no doubt that a lot of work has gone into making Inception one of the best-looking bars in Beijing.

Despite the grandeur of the setting, Inception's opening menu, at nine cocktails long, is relatively concise and is made up of a handful of rotating house and classic cocktails (upon our visit: New York Sour, Whiskey Sour, Moscow Mule, Rob Roy, Pisco Sour, Americano, Mai Tai, all RMB 85-90), as well as Scottish, Irish, and Japanese whiskeys (RMB 90-420 per glass), red wine and white wines (RMB 50 a glass), and two beers (Brugse and Straffe Hendrik, RMB 50).

Of the cocktails we sipped, the Paper Plane was a frothy and tart concoction made using whipped egg whites, bourbon, Amaro, Aperol, and lemon juice and took the tinge of the outside heat. The Rob Roy, meanwhile, packed more of a punch courtesy of a healthy splash of Scotch, Rosso Vermouth, and a kiss of orange bitters. Additionally, the Whiskey Sour was refreshing, smooth, and sported a sharp acidic finish.

Given that the venue was completely empty (a crying shame on account of its size) the playlist was a little too loud at times and skipped between "vintage" jazz classics – Fats Waller’s "Blues", Frankie Valli’s "Can’t Take My Eyes Off You", Bille Holiday’s "Body and Soul" – sometimes without enough curation to live up to the classy surroundings.

Despite these small niggles, however, Inception's sheer scope is remarkable and if it's able to fill even half its seats, it should make for one of the liveliest new drinking holes in Sanlitun. That feat has yet to be seen but nevertheless, I'll admit, Inception is quite impressive.

Inception
Daily 6pm-late. 1/F, Ziming Mansion, 12B Xinzhong Jie, Dongcheng District
东城区新中街乙12号紫铭大厦一层

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Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tracy Wang