“When Elegance Meets Art”: Ten Key Van Cleef & Arpels Pieces

Van Cleef & Arpels | Jul 13, 2018 11:29 am | Add a comment | 2978 reads | Provided by Van Cleef & Arpels

The poetry and elegance of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations is on display at Beijing’s Today Art Museum from Apr 21 to Aug 5, 2018.

Below are 10 of the most emblematic pieces present at the exhibition.

Roses vanity case
1926
Gold, jade, enamel, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

In the 1920s, vanity cases were indispensable accessories for elegant ladies, capable of housing various objects such as a mirror, a powder case, a lipstick and a dance card. typical of the maison’s art deco period, the Roses vanity case is made of mauve jade and set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.

Collaret
1929
Platinum, emeralds, diamonds
Formerly in the collection of Her Royal Highness Princess Faiza of Egypt
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

Created in 1929, this art Deco collaret is remarkable for its ten drop-shaped emeralds of extraordinary quality (165 carats in total) and its diamonds of multiple cuts and shapes. Purchased in 1937 for Princess Faiza of Egypt, it is a typical “court jewel” that she used to love wearing for special occasions

Peony clip
1937
Platinum, gold, rubies, mystery set rubies, diamonds
Formerly in the collection of Her Royal Highness Princess Faiza of Egypt
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

One of the highlights of Van Cleef & Arpels’ 1930s artistry, the Peony clip is set with baguette-cut and round diamonds, and 640 square Burmese rubies in mystery set. patented in 1933, this setting technique is an authentic signature of the maison. originally created as a double clip, it once belonged to Princess Faiza of Egypt.

Necklace
1939
Platinum, diamonds
Formerly in the collection of Her Royal Highness Queen Nazli of Egypt
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels

Once part of the collection of Queen Nazli of Egypt, the necklace was ordered for the wedding of her daughter Fawzia with Mohammed Reza Pahlavi, the Crown prince of Iran, on Mar 16, 1939. It displays impressive lines of 673 baguette-cut and round diamonds weighing a total of 204.03 carats. these rivers, framed by two ribbon motifs, converge towards a large central diamond weighing some six carats.

Sequinned Clip
1948
Platinum, gold, diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

This 1948 clip gives pride of place to the “paillettes” or sequins motif, which appeared for the first time on a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace in 1936. The piece’s lines and volume are enhanced by the sparkle of the sequins, gathered in a precious cluster.

Zip necklace
1951
Gold, platinum, diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic creations, the Zip necklace is a masterpiece of ingenuity. Its origins go back to the late 1930s, when the Duchess of Windsor may have suggested a jewel inspired by the zip fastener to Renée Puissant, the Maison’s Artistic Director. This jewel can be worn open as a necklace and closed as a bracelet when the tassel fringe at its center is slid upwards

Sequined Dancer clip
1953
Gold, diamonds, rubies
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

In 1940, Van Cleef & Arpels’ American workshops in New York created the first Ballerina clips, followed in 1942 by the workshops in Paris. The gracious posture of the dancer on this 1953 clip is highlighted by her precious tutu, adorned with gold sequins set with rubies.

Mystère IV necklace
1956
Gold, platinum, diamonds
Offered by Marcel Dassault, the French aircraft manufacturer, to the French pilot Jacqueline Auriol
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

In 1956, the French aircraft manufacturer Marcel Dassault offered this gold and diamond necklace to Jacqueline Auriol, France’s first woman test pilot. Inspired by the jersey knit, its thin and flexible mesh symbolizes the Mystère IV aircraft’s course, while the graduation of diamonds evokes the trail of condensation formed in the sky

Five Leaves clip
1967
Platinum, rubies, diamonds
Formerly in the collection of opera singer Maria Callas
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels – Patrick Gries

A fashion and jewelry lover, Maria Callas was a discerning collector of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces. One of her special orders, this five-leaf platinum clip is set with diamonds and six Burmese oval rubies weighing a total of 15.77 carats.

Since its foundation, Van Cleef & Arpels was a forerunner in the creation of à l’Orientale jewelry. The Dragon clip created in 1969 pays homage to the mythical creature and evokes the iconography of the dragon and the pearl. Yellow gold is used to portray its long, scaled body, enhanced by cabochon-cut emerald eyes and a coral carved motif.