Lolo's Italian Club Settles Into Jianwai Soho Venue Space With Homestyle Italian Fare
Stepping into Lolo's Italian Club, I couldn't help recall every community center I've ever mistakenly wandered into; dart boards hang on the wall, brown cushioned airport-style furniture fills the space, and a stark bar sits in the corner. It feels like everything has either been there forever or is about to be boxed up an shipped out.
However, this no-frills approach to decor belies the homely and authentic Italian food that Lolo's serves, honed from a small two-man home-based delivery project that began two years ago before spreading to nine kitchens across Beijing, delivering through the app Hui Jia Chi Fan, and now settled into its first proper venue space in Jianwai Soho. For that reason, you can forgive if the interior needs some time to catch up.
The team consists of Rome-born Oliviero Arnone and his wife Lolo, who together make simple but satisfying Italian antipasti, mains, and desserts. Ingredients are mostly imported save for the fresh produce, which is made by Arnone's business partner in the outskirts of Beijing, providing a freshness shines through in the dishes.
A prime example would be the tastebud-jolting starter of bresaola, Parmigiano Reggiano, and arugula drizzled with Modena-made balsamic vinegar (RMB 58), the thin and salty slices of lean beef working perfectly with the fragrant arugula and crumbly Parmesan, while the sweet and tangy balsamic ties the plate together.
The carbonara (RMB 58) came cooked on the right side of al dente and was equally well-balanced as the previous antipasti plate, with an egg sauce that was rich and foamy and came with lashings of black pepper and a healthy sprinkling of chewy pancetta. However, it was the lasagna (also RMB 58) that was perhaps the highlight thanks to a thick layering of fresh mozzarella and again, a palpably fresh and ever-so-slightly acidic tomato sauce.
Arnone also knows his vino, suggesting a glass of Barbera red wine (RMB 48) to accompany the tagliere: cold cuts of ham, salami, and truffle cheese (RMB 68) that finish the meal off. Workers nearby may also want to make Lolo's their go-to for morning coffee, a good and strong espresso costing RMB 22.
As with many a self-respecting Italian chef, Arnone learned how to cook from his mother, who also happened to be fond of painting, a similar skill that he equates to being able to "choose the right elements so that the end result provides the person consuming it a special feeling." The unassuming parts of Lolo's might not make it the first place you'd head for a slap-up Italian meal but the relaxed atmosphere, reasonable prices, and gratifying homestyle servings simply make it a hub to enjoy good food, drink good wine, and unwind amid good company.
Lolo's Italian Club
Daily 7.30am-2pm. 1718, Bldg 17, Jianwai Soho, Chaoyang District (135 5240 8071)
朝阳区建外SOHO西区17号楼底商1718
If you're looking for a reason to drop Lolo's, they'll throw their opening party this Friday, Nov 24, from 6.30pm. Bookings for attendance and a small dinner menu cost RMB 35 advance or RMB 50 on the door.
More stories by this author here.
Email: tomarnstein@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tom Arnstein
