Dongtian Pho at China World Mall Is Affordable and Worth The Wait
The sixth floor of the new zone of China World Mall is a foodie paradise, with an ever-evolving array of affordable cuisine from around the world. Dongtian Kitchen Bar has been consistently packed since its opening, perhaps thanks to its high regard among Chinese celebrities – the big TV screen facing outside plays short clips Chinese stars’ endorsing the place: Fan Bingbing, Li Bingbing, Zhou Xun, and a bunch more. Who has the power to get so many beautiful A-listers in the same clip? Li Dongtian, who named the restaurant after himself, is one of the most famous stylists in China and the guy who is behind the hairdressing outlets Tony Studio (东田造型).
With the vague hope that it would be less crowded after it had been open for a few months, we were wrong – it was packed when we arrived at 12.10. What we got was a handwritten note with a number, and word that there were six tables ahead of us. It took 40 minutes for us just to be seated. The dining area has two sections and a bar in the middle, which is perfect for dining loners like ourselves.
There are seven pho on the menu, with a vegetarian one (RMB 45). Aside from the classic pho dac biet (beef pho, RMB 58), there are chicken, shrimp, and raw beef, all in the RMB 52-56 range. There are also spring rolls (RMB 40-46), tom yum soup with rice noodles, different Thai noodles and rice (RMB 45-78), and six salads (RMB 40-48). The green papaya salad (RMB 40) was refreshing, with a splash of peanuts, and seasoned with vinegar and chili sauce.
We tried both the raw beef (RMB 56) and the normal beef rendition (RMB 52). With a layer of onion, shallot, and cilantro floating on top, both were served in the same flavorful broth with just the right amount of salt, black pepper, and other spices. They are generous with the beef – you'll find them on top of the noodles, and another layer beneath the noodles. The serving was sizeable compared to the other pho shops in Beijing at similar prices, which makes this rendition even more tempting. If we have to poke a hole, we would like to have more sprouts and basil on the side.
The wait staff is akin to that of a hair studio: tattoos, dyed hair, and dressed in all black. They're hospitable but retain a very cool vibe. The food was served quickly and cooked to perfection. Is it worth the money? Definitely yes. Is it worth the 40-minute wait just to be seated? In 30 minutes you could ride a train all the way to Tianjin, where you could find another pho restaurant … we would say it’s worth a 20-minute wait. Even though the table turnover was fast, there was still a line until 1.30pm. If you decide to eat here, you'd better arrive before 12pm to avoid the crowds.
Dongtian Kitchen Bar
Daily 10am-10pm. 6/F, NL6003, bldg B, China World Mall, 1 Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang District (8535 1086)
PHO東田越南粉: 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸三期B座6层NL6003号
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Photos: Tracy Wang
