Back For More: Oden

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

Oden is rightfully known for its eponymous dish: hearty portions of daikon, egg and fish cake stewed in a mellow but flavorful broth. The warming soup makes a potent antidote against Beijing’s winter chill. You can get a set for RMB 88, or just choose your own ingredients.

The restaurant also tries its hand at fusion. Take, for instance, their tuna miso pizza (RMB 48). I was skeptical at first, but I’m glad I gave it a proper chance. Though the middle of the pizza was a touch soggy, it more than made up for it with its bold taste and crackly edges. Fish on pizza isn’t easy, and this version managed to avoid the pitfalls.

Mackerel brightened by a stewed miso glaze (RMB 48) was a comforting dish with gentle pieces of fish coddled by the sweet sauce. The snowflake eggplant (RMB 28), which comes strewn with tiny flakes of daikon in a light soy broth, was also winter-appropriate, and not just because of its name.

Oden serves its dessert in small portions, but they’ve put plenty of work into them. The scoop of chocolate ice cream is nice and dense, but I can’t quite recommend it at RMB 28. I was, however, happy paying RMB 28 for the homemade pudding, a semi-magical pot of creamy delight with a layer of burnt caramel hiding at the bottom.

Also try: Fish Mama

Oden Daily 6pm-late (reservations essential before 10pm). Rm 204, Taiyue Suites, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6506 6700) 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2层204室

By subway: 1km northwest of Hujialou station (Lines 6 & 10)

This article originally appeared on page 21 of the January issue of the Beijinger.

Photo: Song Yang