Hutong Curry: Santoor Opens in Gulou
If you liked Tamarind at Soho Shangdu, you'll be happy to hear about the arrival of Santoor, whose hutong address is much easier to find, on Ju’er Hutong just off Nanluogu Xiang. They're serving up all the northern Indian favorites with flavors that aren’t drowned out by an excess of cream.
The palak paneer was one of our favorite dishes of the night. Cubes of soft, creamy cheese hid within the earthy spinach puree that contained a subtle touch of cardamon. Meanwhile, the butter chicken offered a spicy heat that slowly built from an initial warmth to a lasting buzz. We were happy to see that both dishes, particularly the chicken curry, were restrained in their use of cream, which can so often destroy the delicate blend of spices.
The garlic naan helped scoop up the sauce but we found it more doughy than crisp; we attributed it to a tandoor that was not yet roaring at full strength, as we were there at the start of the dinner service. Vegetable samosas dutifully eased the hunger at the start of the meal, and a thick mango lassi took the length of the meal to finish.
As the evening went on, groups trickled in and filled the intimate space. The Nanluogu Xiang area has been sorely lacking in South Asian cuisine options since Mirch Masala's closure earlier this year, so even though Santoor is quite new, its warmth and character are already drawing in the curry-craving crowds.
Santoor Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5pm-11pm. 12 Ju'er Hutong, Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6402 0310) 萨都里, 东城区南锣鼓巷菊儿胡同12号
Photo: Lauren McCarthy
