CBD Cafe Roundup: Sunfish Hut, Hollys Coffee & Terroir
The Sohos around Central Park – Soho Shangdu and Chaowai Soho – have had a flurry of activity of late. We went around to check out the new venues of note: Sunfish Hut, Hollys Coffee and Terroir. Here's what we found.
Sunfish Hut.Daily 9am-8pm. Unit 0125, Bldg B, Chaowai Soho, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (400 6717 517) 三余坊, 朝阳区朝外大街乙6号朝外Soho B座0125室
There's probably some ancient Chinese wisdom that suggests it's foolish to judge based on appearances. If there's not, then it's time for a modern nugget that tells you not to hold a bakery's signage against it. Sunfish Hut has a bizarre name and Daoist imagery so you could be forgiven for walking on by what seems to be another Chinese bakery. That would be your loss. The cafe sells top-class pastries and breads but then, of course it would when its chef was blooded in the Kempinski. We tried their pretzel, their almond croissant, a white chocolate mousse and a couple of muffins (blueberry and carrot-ginger) and found them all quite delightful. There's 30% off the perishables after 7pm. Our current favorite CBD bakery, Pekotan, finally has some local competition and it could not be more welcome. Expect Sunfish Hut to roll out citywide if this first store is the success that it deserves to be.
Hollys Coffee. Mon-Fri 8-11pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm. Unit 2188, North Tower, Soho Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (5869 8651) 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都北塔2188室
It started with one Maan but the Koreans are coming. They're coming for the city's coffee culture. Hollys Coffee is the latest popular Korean chain to enter the market. Think of it as the Seoul Starbucks. It's pretty, they have attractive branded merchandise but it's a touch overpriced. They sell a range of coffees at around RMB 30 and food from RMB 16. To-go sandwiches include ham & cheese and tuna (RMB 22, half RMB 16), there's a cheese-smothered triangular croque monsieur (RMB 28) and strawberry or red bean crushed ice desserts (RMB 45). This Korean chain is also big on waffles, but Hollys' (RMb 18) are quainter than Maan's monsters. Hollys is obviously popular back home and its grand-opening coupon book, packed with buy-one-get-one-free deals, will certainly build a following. There's no better time to try their sweet potato latte.
Terroir. Daily 10am-10pm. Unit 0128, Bldg B, Chaowai Soho, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (5900 0610) 泰勒瓦, 朝阳区朝外大街乙6号朝外Soho B座0128B号
Beijing must really want Chinese-owned wine bars. That can be the only explanation for the number that have opened recently. Terroir is another and it too aims for the higher end of the market. Their wine selection spans the Old World and the New, with bottles starting at a pocket-friendly RMB 70 and wine by the glass beginning at an equally charming RMB 28. Terroir also offers set lunches with the options of panini, pasta (and salad) or garlic bread (and salad) plus wine, coffee or a soft drink for RMB 48. So far, so cafe-cum-wine bar – but Terroir steps it up by offering the fine produce such as fleur de sel (RMB 155 per bottle) and canned Burgandy escargot. When you want to feel French, you know where to go.
Photos: Marilyn Mai