Blutwurst, Sauerkraut ‘n Pork: German Food in the Hutongs

Following on from the runaway success of this week’s Poutine in the Hutongs post (phew!), here’s another dish sure to startle and delight homesick foreigners – Germans, this time. Beijing has a smattering of Teutonic eateries serving sausages, pickled cabbage and pork knuckle of varying authenticity and price (Schindler’s Tanskstelle, Paulaner Brauhaus, Hopfenstube – though my German foodie pal reckons Der Landgraf in the south is the runaway winner). But for all your Bavarian favourites – served up at once – you need only head to your nearest and dearest Dongbei eatery. Frauleins and, err, whatever is German for men (curse you, English secondary school system) – I give you … zanjia suancai zhaopai dahui cai.

I’m not going to attempt to translate, but it’s on the menu at Dongbeiren in English as “Assorted Sauerkraut Pot” (You can find variants of this dish in Dongbei restaurants all over town). It’s a really big pot too, easily enough for three, and just RMB 53. Do the math(s)! But wait, that’s not remotely German, you foolish swine-herder, you might be thinking. And you’re right, just to avoid any protracted confusion in the comments. But - take a look at this…

Did you ever see such a German-looking plate of food (from a Chinese restaurant in China)? Fish out the constituents of this witches’ brew and you get: heaps of vinegary pickled cabbage, chunks of house made blood sausage, and great hunks of stewed pork shin! OK, admittedly I’ve overlooked the tofu and the glass noodles, but pretty close, eh? By the way, tastes really good. Something is missing though, right?

Of course! Mustard. Senf. I took the liberty of bringing my own. Admittedly it’s English mustard but – a: that’s all I had in the cupboard. And b: I like the fact that it’s seriously hot. Tschus!