Oh Shucks: Beijing's Newest Oyster Bar

If Chris Herbert were any more passionate about bivalve mollusks, you’d worry about what he gets up to when Starfish closes for the night. In this slick new oyster bar (where W Dine & Wine used to live), his imported shellfish get the VIP treatment, doused continuously in a filtered saltwater rain bath until they’re shucked and served – live, lithe and lovely – on a bed of ice. The varieties on offer here, with names like Little Skookum, Virginica and Kumo Moto, vary in size, texture and taste to a marvelous degree.

The Olympia oysters were miniscule, with a metallic, mineral complexity. Little Skookum were bulbous and silky – delicious with a drizzle of mignonette. You can order by the pair, or go all-out with the “Shucker’s Choice” (RMB 360 for 12), a seasonal sampler platter. It’s not all raw. Chef Coleman, a Beijinger, knocks out deceptively simple crab cakes (RMB 76), with a textured mouthfeel that points to much recipe tinkering. “Jumbo lump, lump, special and claw,” explains Chris, identifying the meaty parts of a crab – the equivalent of short loin, flank and brisket. Shrimp cocktail (RMB 86) had a nice wasabi bite to the sauce, and a grilled fillet of Atlantic flounder (RMB 139) was another well-sourced if unadventurous ode to the 1970s, served with lemon parsley butter and rice.

A neat wine selection plus cocktails designed by Mao Mao Chong puts the “bar” into oyster bar, an institution which, incidentally, is all the rage in the food capitals of the world. If oysters are the next trend to hit Beijing, Starfish is a strong start.

Standout dishes: Oysters, crab cakes

Also try: Let’s Seafood, East 33 (for seafood buffet)

Starfish Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm. 22-1 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (opposite Canadian Embassy), Chaoyang District (6416 9838) 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号（加拿大大使馆对面）

Click here to see the December issue of the Beijinger in full.