Art Hike: Caochangdi
Our fifth and final art walk takes you to an area that's really the best of both worlds: well-curated, high quality exhibits kept safe from big-money development (so you can still revel in dirt roads, street markets and the like). Threats of Caochangdi's impending demolition mean this may change soon, so take it in while you still can.
For those who might have been out of town, the August issue of our magazine featured five Art Hikes: short pedestrian routes in five of Beijing's artsy areas (from the obvious like 798 to the non-obvious like Sanlitun). Included in those routes were stops at not only galleries and other art venues, but also restaurants, cafes, shops and the like, for full- or half-days of cultured constitutionals.
We figured the October holiday would be a good time to try some of these walks out (if you haven't already been). The gritty village charm of Caochangdi awaits you!
CAOCHANGDI
Drop-off location: Caochangdi (草场地) bus stop (D), north end of Caochangdi Village
How to get there: From Dongzhimen or Liangmaqiao, take a cab (RMB 20+) or hop on Bus 688, 909 or 418 to Caochangdi.
Specialty gear: Good Mandarin skills, a local friend or a Chinese dictionary.
Camouflage: Relaxed, earthy duds and traditional black cloth shoes.
Flora: All the photography that’s fit to print, as well as paintings, installations, video and new media with a more understated approach; chic minimalist brick buildings flanked by construction sites.
Fauna: Villagers, cab drivers on break, foreign foundation directors and gallery owners, and the occasional art luminary hiding away.
Trailhead: Once off the bus, cross the street (Nangao Lu), then cross the train tracks and follow a dusty trail to the Three Shadows Photography Art Center(1), where you’ll begin your jaunt. Once inside its halls, pause every few feet to admire stunning views of China’s past and present.
Watering hole: Walking on the edge (of Beijing) means you’ll want to recharge early and often, so it’s a good thing Three Shadows has a small coffee shop. Drink in the sharp contrasts of a dark brew and pale ceramic vessel.
Trail split: 1) Head east to the architecturally akin China Art Archives and Warehouse(2), which houses all manner of contemporary creations; or 2) Veer northwest for a look at Platform China(3), known for its premier residency program and early nonprofit support of the Beijing art scene. If you’re the thorough type, make your mark across both trails.
The Lowlands: Head back across Nangao Lu to where Caochangdi Village serves as the dusty canvas to splashes of abstract expression. Start with Galeries Urs Meile(4), wind over to Pekin Fine Arts(5), then continue down to the Alexander Ochs Gallery and White Space Beijing(6) (they're attached) before circling over to Chambers Fine Art(7). Walks between galleries should take less than five minutes, and all have solid track records for showing provocative exhibits.
Pit stop: Prop up those dusty feet at Fodder Factory(8), a favorite of Caochangdi’s laowai insiders, for some homestyle Chinese food. Their perfectly sculpted ringlets of cucumber and julienne of celery, tofu and pork would impress the most meticulous mixed-media paper-cutter; have an Erdinger beer for a lacquered finish. Down the road, the Caochangdi Club offers a comfortable Sichuanese option. Two giant tubs of their homemade pickled cabbage greet you.
The Village: Take an opportunity to mill around in one of the last remaining villages this close to Beijing. Produce, goods, and people all spill onto the narrow paths; at night, the neighborhood comes alive with chuan’r grills and other cheap eats. Soak in this impromptu performance art as it deconstructs public/private dichotomies.
Hazards: The lonely ache of existing on the margins of society, even if just for an afternoon.
First aid: Hop over to the China National Film Museum(9), where perusing kitschy sets and costuming and taking in the latest action movie on IMAX will bring you squarely back into the mainstream.