BJ Burger Wars: Grandma’s Kitchen Vs Paul’s Steak & Eggs

Wassup!! It’s Burger (Vs) Burger Mondays again, patty peeps. That means one thing: sizzling, bun-on-bun action. This week, two old-school Americana-inspired diners duke it out. Grandma’s Kitchen and Paul’s Steak & Eggs have been grilling patties longer than most in Beijing. Both have a number of restaurants and a long-term expat following, and both, it’s fair to say, aren’t the spring chickens they once were. But what about their burgers?

In the red corner: Classic American Burger (w/cheese), Grandma’s Kitchen. RMB 57.

The brief. 12 kuai for cheese? Otherwise at RMB 45 it would be the same price as Paul’s. A very wide bun and equally wide, thin patty. Plating a bit haphazard and lazy – the patty is overhanging the base bun quite a bit.

The bite. Soft, cake-like bread dominates; saltiness from the beef and the gherkins. Onion and tomato flavor surprisingly strong. A bit like an oversized salad sandwich. Balance skewed against the beef.

The beef. And this is why. A small-grained patty with a tight, processed texture and no real beefy richness or charcoal bite. Very salty.

The bits. Nice fresh tomato, sliced gherkin and raw onion. Huge unwieldy iceberg lettuce leaf. Dunno what I’m supposed to do with that. Cheese is proper cheddar, which works well.

Harmonious society. It all holds together OK, but the bottom of the bun is a bit greasy underneath.

Fries? Nice and golden but chewy, especially as they cool down.

Next…

In the blue corner: Cheeseburger, Paul’s Steak & Eggs. RMB 45

The brief. Wide and flat again – in fact this looks more ‘mom & pop’ than anywhere so far. Served open, the meat side is liberally covered in a sticky, gooey mix of American cheese, grilled onions, mushrooms and green peppers. Looks pretty darn appetizing.

The bite. Firm, well-toasted bun – a tad puffy - baked bespoke to fit the beef. Lots of cheese straightaway, mingling with the sharp flavors of the green peppers and grilled onions. Juicy effect, held together by the bread. Quite a nice taste combo overall, if a little salty.

The beef. Well-charred, wide, thin patty. Doesn’t have huge beefiness, but a pleasing, home-ground roughness about it.

The bits. A successful formula: lots of tangy orange cheese, grilled onions and mushrooms and slightly spicy green pepper. Gives the burger a very satisfying taste profile, which makes up for less than beefy beef. Mushrooms probably not necessary.

Harmonious society. Puffy homemade bun holds things together with impeccable poise, especially considering all those gooey toppings. Everything fits flush to the edges. Assembled with care.

Fries? Included. Small portion of piping-hot golden fries. Not bad at all.

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I reckon both these joints have stalled a bit since the likes of Let’s Burger and Blue Frog showed up to woo Beijingers with their stacked sandwiches and fancy fillings. But really for me it’s only Paul’s burger that makes a decent case for the good old days. True, it is reliant somewhat on the cheese, onion and pepper topping for flavor, but the bread is good, it’s all nicely cooked and assembled, and, together with tasty fries and a decent price, really hits the spot. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for GK (Jiaodaokou branch, incidentally). The beef was just too underwhelming.

Verdict: Paul’s Steak & Eggs by a nose

Next time: Shuangjing sluggers – Lily’s Vs Grinders. In the mean time, keep your mouth watering by reviewing our previous burger battles ...

Heat 1: The Box Versus Vineyard Cafe

Heat 2: Union Bar & Grille Versus Flamme

Heat 3: First Floor Versus Luga's

Heat 4: Let's Burger Versus Blue Frog

Heat 5: Village Cafe Versus Scarlett

* All opinions expressed are those of an Englishman who once went to In-&-Out in LA (he didn’t even know about the secret menu, hah) and now has the gall to write this stuff.