Grape Press: Best in Class
As this month’s restaurant awards demonstrate, Beijing is fast becoming one of the world’s more exciting culinary destinations. The capital’s wine market, however, remains a challenge. While the range of imported wines has improved, the sizeable margins levied by importers, distributors and retailers continue to plague prices.
This month’s recommendations all represent good value. These are personal selections, gleaned from trawling through scores of importer lists, opening hundreds of bottles each year for classes and tasting hundreds more. But they are only a cross-section of what is now available.There aren’t really any wines in the world worth much more than RMB 500. Above this price, you are usually paying for prestige, packaging or rarity value. The RMB 100-300 mark is where the real value lies.
Under RMB 100
Star wine: 2009 Lo Tengo Torrontés (RMB 80, ASC)
Close contenders: Mont-Besson Syrah-Grenache (RMB 88, Globus), Uxmal Malbec (RMB 95, Summergate) RMB
RMB 100-200
Star wine: 2009 Yalumba Y Series Viognier (RMB 165, Summergate)
Close contenders: Mannenberg Pinotage (RMB 110, Jebsen), Grace Vineyard Chardonnay (RMB 118, Torres), Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (RMB 125, CWS), Furstbach Riesling (RMB 185, Mercuris)
RMB 200-300
Star wine: 2007 Chinon les Pensées de Pallus (RMB 228, Globus)
Close contenders: Clos de los Siete (RMB 220, Jebsen), Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc (RMB 230, Links China), Markus Molitor Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett (RMB 239, Wine Culture), Marcarini Barbera d’Alba (RMB 247, Aussino), Momo Pinot Noir (RMB 250, The Wine Republic)
RMB 300-400
Star wine: 2005 Mauro Molino Nebbiolo Langhe (RMB 319, Wine Culture)
Close contenders: Angove’s McLaren Vale Shiraz (RMB 360, Mercuris), Isole e Olena Chianti Classico (RMB 384, The Wine Republic)
RMB 400-500
Star wine: 2005 Howard Park Leston Shiraz (RMB 405, Aussino)
Close contenders: Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vigne du Regent Chateau Gigognan (RMB 415, EMW), Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva (RMB 490, Summergate)
Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.