Sublime Rime: Icy Escapades in Jilin Province
Winter is here.
Many will be hibernating until spring. But some of us are polar bears, and to us, the frosty paradises of Dongbei call.
Only 40km outside of Jilin City, Jilin province, this jewel of frigid Dongbei has earned itself a reputation as a photographer’s paradise.
Of course, China’s northeast is famous for another winter marvel, the Harbin ice sculpture festival. Wusong Dao is very different. Comparing the two is like weighing the merits of an uproarious urban water park against a pristine tropical beach. Harbin’s ice festival is an over-the-top man-made spectacle, while Wusong Dao is a low-key self-sustaining peculiarity.
Here, on six square kilometers of barely populated island, a nondescript landscape is transformed into an otherworldly ice fairyland. Scrubby grasses bristle with downy ice-spines. Trees blossom in a feathery fleece of frozen condensation. Even the bare ground itself prickles with icy stubble as everything around accumulates a thick layer of crystalline snow puff. The effect encompasses a vivid range of visual textures, both soft and sharp, evolving along with one’s vantage. Now white, now translucent, feathers and daggers of ice on one branch.
The reason? Rime.
Rime ice is created when, in severely cold air, warm water vapor or fog meets any object and freezes on contact. From December through February, Wusong Dao is bombarded every morning with delicate layers of ice petals as the warm mists waft in off the encircling river. This artery was known as “Heaven River” to the Manchus; the warm vapors that today buffet and beautify the shores of Wusong Dao are far from heavenly in origin.
Wusong Dao owes its artistry not wholly to nature, but to a hydroelectric power plant upstream, whose sluice gates release a continuous flow of river water at a balmy 4°C. In the winter, the river meets the freezing air at temperatures ranging from -20 to -25°C. The collision of hot and cold breathes an ice jacket over each twig and blade of grass throughout the area.
The effect is most striking in the morning, after the water vapor has had a long, dark night to condense in the coldest air of the day. For a frolic within this stunning scene of super-frost, pack an extra memory card and chug across the Songhua River on a small barge. Looped cables dangle about the barge, wearing a kaleidoscopically patterned beard of frost. Layered sheets of ice on the banks betray the flowing confidence of the Songhua River.
Strap on the awe-goggles and bundle up for a magical morning. The environment brings one back to the amazement of childhood. Thus, carefree swing-swinging, tower-climbing, ice-sliding and snow-flinging are all worthy endeavors to work into one’s Wusong Dao program. There are dogs on hand, and a sled. If you pay a man some money, those dogs will pull the sled around with you in it.
And if one morning is not enough? The island’s lone farmhouse provides accommodation. Be warned that facilities on Wusong Dao are extremely basic. But this is rugged frontier country, where the hardy traveler trades comfort for ceaseless wonder.
Getting there
Roundtrip flights from Beijing to Jilin City (50min each way) start from around RMB 1,000. For the more frugal traveler, a hard sleeper bunk goes for RMB 263. Catch a bus in front of Jilin City Train Station to Wulajie (乌拉街). From there, take a cab to Hantun (韩屯), the gateway to Wusong Dao.
