Veg Your Bets: Think eating green in Beijing is impossible? Think again

It’s a fact of life that Chinese people love eating meat. Being a vegetarian here isn’t considered cool, as it might be in other places. Rather, the veggie lifestyle is more commonly regarded as silly or inconvenient if you’re not a monk. But there are ways of avoiding those moments when you discover tiny shreds of pork in that dish the waitress had confirmed was “su.” Rather than change your ways, seek out the fine vegetarian options on offer at these local restaurants.

Bhodi-Sake
Fluffy rabbits jubilantly hop around the grounds of this Buddhist temple’s elegantly converted front courtyard. The imitation meat dishes are a huge cliche, but you’ll enjoy sampling Bhodi-Sake’s huge variety. Try the “Lingering Aftertaste,” a vegan version of mala beef jerky – it’s so close to the real thing that committed vegetarians will have guilt-induced nightmares.
Daily 11am-10pm. 10-16 Heiyao Changjie, Xuanwu District. (6354 2889/ 6155) 菩提缘, 宣武区黑窑厂街10-16号

Cafe de la Poste
Fundamentalists will grit their teeth at the sight of fellow diners tucking into this popular French-run spot’s huge steaks. Cafe de la Poste wouldn’t automatically pop into your head as a “vegetarian” restaurant, but it’s hard to deny that they offer a better selection of meat-free dishes than you’ll find in many Beijing restaurants. The French community pack in every night, drawn by the casual atmosphere and friendly staff.
Daily noon-3pm, 6pm-late. 58 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6402 7047) 东城区雍和宫大街58号

Cao Mu Jian
If you like a cuppa with your veggie dishes and imitation meat, this is the place to come. Traditional music and tea ceremonies also feature.
Daily 10.30am-2pm, 5-10pm. 2/F, Huateng Plaza, 302A Jinsong San Qu (3km south of Guomao on Dongsanhuan Lu), Chaoyang District. (8773 0135) 草木间, 朝阳区劲松三区甲302号华腾大厦二层(东三环国贸往南3公里)

Cat’s Cradle
Just a few minutes’ walk from the National Art Museum, this restaurant is easy to spot with its signage promising “Organic Vegetarian Cuisine” in huge English lettering. There’s no English menu once you get inside, but if you can order from the Chinese you’ll likely enjoy the healthy fare. Decor is pleasant enough, and refreshingly free of Buddhist kitsch.
Daily 11am-9pm. 66 Meishuguan Houjie, Dongcheng District. (6405 1405) 香阳小筑, 东城区美术馆侯街66号

Elaine’s Vegetarian Restaurant and Bar
Elaine’s quaint little garden supplies generous portions of mainly Chinese-inspired dishes. The Luoma Lake setting is great for summer chilling. Gets good reports from non-vegetarians as well as from herbivorous Beijingers.
Daily 10am-9.30pm. Walk 800m along the banks of Luoma Lake, 100m north of Luoma Roundabout, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8048 5088) 素心小筑, 顺义区后沙峪镇罗马环岛向北100米左转沿罗马湖畔800米

Gongdelin
A Buddha statue greets you as you enter this long-established Qianmen area restaurant, and devotees of the pot-bellied one will be right at home with Gongdelin’s reasonably priced vegetarian fare. The menu is heavy on faux rou items like vegetarian “pork” balls and BBQ “lamb” kebabs with cumin.
Daily 11am-9pm. 58 Qianmen Dajie, Chongwen District. (6702 0867) 功德林, 崇文区58 前门大街

Lotus in Moonlight
Awarded “Outstanding Vegetarian” in the Beijinger’s 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards, Lotus in Moonlight offers a plentiful selection of vegetarian dishes fashioned from greens, tofu and more. You can tell it’s the real deal from the number of monks who dine here.
1) Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9.30pm. 12 Liufang Nanli, Chaoyang District. (6465 3299); 2) Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm. 3/F, Disanji Creative Space, 66 Beisihuan Xilu, Haidian District. (6268 0848/1318) 荷塘月色素食, 1) 朝阳区柳芳南里12号楼; 2) 海淀区北四环西路66号第三极3层

Pure Lotus
Dictionary definitions of the word “serene” may one day be rewritten to allow reference to Pure Lotus. The menu features all the imitation meat dishes you could want, and they come beautifully presented. One of Beijing’s more expensive vegetarian outings, but worth trying at least once. The Sanlitun (Nongzhanguan Nanlu) location is hidden behind a furniture store just north of Changhong Qiao.
Daily 11am-11pm. 1) Tongguang Bldg, 12 Nongzhanguan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6592 3627, 8703 6669); 2) 3/F, Holiday Inn Lido, Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (8703 6668, 6437 6288) 净心莲, 1) 朝阳区农展馆南路12号(通广大厦内); 2) 朝阳区丽都假日饭店三层,首都机场将台路

Sea of Lotus
The hole-in-the-wall among Beijing’s vegetarian restaurants. Inexpensive, but the food gets mixed reviews. In its favor, it does carry a great selection of fresh tea.
Daily 9.30am-9.30pm. 12 Cheniandian Hutong (across from the Hebei Hotel), Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6403 6169) 莲花海素食, 东城区安定门内大街车辇店胡同12号

Still Thoughts
With its selection of replica “meats,” Still Thoughts offers as much fakery as you’ll find at Yashow, and is similarly popular with expats. Fortunately, the imitations here feature tofu manipulated into spookily good renderings of pork, beef and chicken – a whole lot easier to digest than an RMB 200 “Adibas” shell suit. One of Beijing’s best vegetarian dining options.
Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 18A Dafosi Dongjie, Yuqun Hutong (turn right onto Yuqun from Dafosi, which continues from Meishuguan Dongjie), Dongcheng District. (6400 8941); 2) 30A Gaoliangqiao Lu (inside the Meiyuan Hotel), Haidian District. (6225 5792) 静思素食坊, 1) 东城区大佛寺东街甲18号育群胡同 (美术馆东街往北); 2) 海淀区高梁桥路甲30号 (梅苑饭店大院内)

Tianchu Miaoxiang
Located in Tsinghua Science Park, just southwest of the main gate of Tsinghua University, this restaurant is a pleasant find and offers a change from the studenty haunts that dominate Wudaokou’s dining selection. Great teas and a large picture menu.
Daily 10am-9pm. 1/F, Chuangye Bldg, Tsinghua Keji Yuan, Haidian District. (6279 7078) www.liaofan.com 天厨妙香素食馆, 海淀区清华科技园创业大厦一层

Baihe Vegetarian
A great place to enjoy vegetarian cuisine, sip imported organic coffees and herbal teas, or just hang out. Helpful and attentive staff, an English menu, desserts and wireless Internet access also feature.
1) Daily 11am-10pm. 23 Caoyuan Hutong (west off Dongzhimen Beixiaojie), Dongcheng District. (6405 2082); 2) Daily 9am-10pm. South of the Xinjian Gongmen gate of the Summer Palace, Haidian District. (6287 8726) 百合素食香草园, 1) 东城区东直门北小街草园胡同23号; 2) 海淀区颐和园新建宫门南

Vegan Hut
Vegetable stir-fries and the requisite mock meats are there, along with tasty tofu burgers. Several set menus, including curry chicken, mushroom, and vegetable stir-fries, make for healthy CBD business lunching.
Stall 0912, 2/F, Bldg 9, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 9856, 139 1172 9610) 维根小屋, 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外Soho9号楼2层0912

Veg-On
Modest black-and-white decor, yummy vegetarian dishes and sweet Taiwanese desserts will have you back for more. Try the cinnamon-tinged spring rolls and dishes featuring the creative application of various fruits. Prices are reasonable, but the set lunches offer particularly good value. Voted “Outstanding Vegetarian” in the Beijinger’s 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards.
Daily 11am-10pm. Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6301/6) 家乡素食, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区

Xu Xiang Zhai
Features an all-you-can-eat veggie buffet – wear pants with an elastic band to take full advantage of the restaurant’s veggie twists on Chinese classics, sushi, dumplings, hot pot and more. Monk sightings are common.
Daily 11.30am-9pm; lunch buffet 11.30am-2pm, dinner buffet 5.30-9pm. 26 Guozijian Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6404 6568) 叙香斋, 东城区国子监大街甲26-1号

Compiled by Stone Yu and Iain Shaw