Yashow Reopens: Shinier Package, But Some Old Elements Remain

After nine months of gestation, Sanlitun's Yashow Market has finally reopened this morning – and if you're looking for a bargain, it's going to be harder to find one.

Long beloved as a place to buy knock-off goods and bargain for hours, Yashow has mostly ditched the small stalls and replaced them with fancier stalls in an attempt to reposition itself as an equally swanky next door neighbor to Taikoo Li.

A visit this morning to its grand opening revealed a place somewhat recognizable, and with some indications that its old image may still return in force.

Gone are most of the cramped hole-in-the-wall stalls, and in their place stand a smattering of airy boutique shops with room to browse and prices that would shock a former Yashow shopper – and plenty of unrented retail space. About a third of the spaces in the once bustling market remain unoccupied.

A flagship Major League Baseball (MLB) apparel store has opened on the first floor, along with outlets from Dickies and Jeep Apparel.

Some of its older flavor remains with Sally Tailor back on the third floor with some of other tailors, and some of the watch merchants appear to have returned. A DVD store still lurks in the back. The cheapo food court on the fifth floor is gone, replaced by a swankier-looking Sichuan place (and a lot of empty space).

Most of the other retailers remain one-off boutiques rather than branded chains – some reek of knock-off, like one shop billing itself as "LOVISKORS". One merchant selling branded apparel insisted that they were the real McCoy, but their signage and merchandise were lacking some of the details you'd see at a genuine brand outlet.

And a quick attempt at bargaining at two stalls revealed that at least in some, the prices still have plenty of room to move, and that merchants will still yell after you offering lower prices as you walk away. Some things never change.

Many a foreigner learned Chinese-style bargaining techniques via the ruthless free-market exchange that was always part of a trip to the old Yashow. Likewise, Chinese vendors quickly learned many a foreign tongue in their daily haggling with customers from all around the world.

Whether you liked it or hated it, the old Yashow had a character and a personality so that you always knew what to expect: it's probably fake, you'll probably need to bargain hard, and you'll walk out with something you need. It seems like your wallet will taker a harder hit this time around, rendering the whole purpose of a place like Yashow a little obsolete.

Image: Kyle Mullin