Who’s the Boss? Fish and Chips in Lido

Fish and chips is a dish close to this Brit’s heart. A slab of steamy (sustainable) cod in golden batter; a heap of fluffy, crisp-edged potatoes. Best eaten with fingers, by the sea, in the rain. The Big Boss platter (RMB 79) has hand-cut chips, but they fall well short of Fish Nation’s for flavor. The fish tastes like a frozen fillet, which at this price, may just be forgivable.

Less forgivable are the burgers (RMB 56-168), which include imported flatfish and teriyaki chicken options. Judging Big Boss on the basics, the cheeseburger (RMB 58) is guilty of heinous culinary crimes. A hand-formed patty crumbled to bits, tasting of little. The bacon was of the base budget variety, like chewing a salty belt. The “secret sauce” should be upgraded to “top secret,” and deposited in a CIA lockup next to Indy’s Ark of the Covenant.

On the plus side, Big Boss has a fairly pleasant coffee shop vibe. But the kitchen needs a Gordon Ramsay-sized boot up the behind.

Standout dishes: Traditional French fries, ice cream Coke
Also try: Fish Nation, Let’s Seafood

Big Boss Fish & Chips
Daily 10am-10.30pm. 2 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District (5135 7305)
朝阳区芳园西路2号

Photos: Tom O’Malley

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Rumours of Big Boss' death may have been exaggerated. An "anonymous source" tells me that their closure was only temporary and that they may well be back in business soon. Rest assured, we'll let you know one way or another when the final outcome is clear, one way or another.

Thanks to aforementioned anonymous source for the kind tip-off.

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this article was reprinted from our July edition. It seems indeed the place has closed since it was written up. Apologies to anyone led astray by the appearance of this review on the blog.

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I don't quite "get" this review at this point in time, as the only two times I have seen the place with open doors was a couple of months ago shortly after its opening. I pass by the area almost daily, last time was Saturday, and it's been closed with white curtains covering the windows and no indication of business hours. Or has Big Boss "reopened" just today?

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