Art & Eats: An Exhibition from Berlin and a Bit of Berlin Bites
There’s an exhibition of art from the Collection of Museum Berggruen and Nationalgalerie Berlin going on at UCCA right now. Significant for the artists who are included in the exhibition, it’s a great way to understand modern art through a historical lens, with UCCA transporting the Berlin art experience to Beijing until late February.
But with all that art you’ll also need a bit of fuel to take it all in, so we’ve cooked up a sort of fun itinerary to keep yourself in Germany for a day, with some breakfast, then some art, and then an afternoon snack to wind it all down.
Breakfast: Michael’s German Bakery
Run with loving care by master baker Michael Bock, his wife Annie, and their son, Michael’s German Bakery has been serving up freshly baked German breads and treats in Beijing for 12 years now.
Start your day here with a coffee and a savory brezelcroissant, which gets its rich, salty bite from lye flour. If you have more of a sweet tooth, opt for the bakery’s krapfen, the German equivalent of a powdered jam donut that, unlike its American counterpart, is filled with actual strawberry jam.
Next Stop: The Exhibition
After a quick bite in the cozy confines of Michael’s (or outside if you’re on the go), it’s time to head to 798. To get there, you can either grab a Didi (it’s 15 minutes by car, so easier if you’re in a rush), or go by public transit. If you take the latter option, hop on bus 116 at Mananli, and take it to Shangezhuang, where you’ll hop on Line 14. Take Line 14 to Wangjing Nan, go out through Exit B and walk to 798 from there.
UCCA finds itself on Jiuxian Lu within the arts district. Through its red and metal exterior enter to be transported to the Museum Berggruen in Berlin. Named for art dealer and collector Heinz Berggruen (1914-2007), Modern Time presents over 100 pieces from the museum, all by modern masters.
These include works by Picasso, Klee, Matisse, Giacometti, Cézanne, and Braque, all arranged throughout the space chronologically. The chronological layout is meant to allow visitors to understand how modern art changed throughout the 20th century; to witness art as it changed with the times. A nice crash course in modern art, as it were, all in a well thought out exhibition space specially designed for the show.
Afternoon Snack & Drinks: Berlin Bites
After getting an understanding of modern art from the Berggruen collection, it’s time enough for a nice snack. Keep it in Berlin with a waimai order (if you’d like to eat this Berlin street food in the heart of 798), or direct trip to Berlin Bites.
If you’re opting to go there, hop on bus 405 from Dashanzilu Nankou and take it for a 35 minute ride to Sanyuanan (or grab another Didi for a shorter trip). Berlin Bites is on the 3rd floor of the Shijiuju Food Court.
The thing to go for here is their massive Berlin-style döner kebab. Choose from chicken, beef, or veggies (RMB 60 for beef or chicken, RMB 50 for veggies) stuffed inside thick flat bread with vegetables and your preferred sauce – herb, garlic, or spicy. Their currywurst (RMB 55 with fries, RMB 45 without) are also stellar, and pair great with a German beer (RMB 30) or their signature cocktail, the Berlin Mule (RMB 50).
Bonus: Stroll Along the Liangma River
After Berlin Bites, it’s a good idea for a bit of a stroll. Head to the Liangma River. While a bit far at 25 minutes by foot – it’s only 13 minutes or so if you’re biking – it’s not a bad way to end the day, a walk along the riverfront with German eats in the belly and modern art on the mind.
Modern Time: Masterpieces from the Collection of Museum Berggruen/Nationalgalerie Berlin is open from now until Feb 25. Adult tickets are RMB 150/person on weekends and RMB 120/person on weekdays. Tickets can be purchased at the museum or via UCCA's WeChat mini program (search UCCA尤伦斯当代艺术中心).
READ: Subway Art: The Murals of Beijing's Subway Line 2
Images: Vincent R. Vinci, courtesy of UCCA