More Than O Le at Ori Sake & Food

RJ Fry | Mar 28, 2023 3:30 pm | Add a comment | 752 reads

“O le means OK, fine, or no problem in Dongbeihua,” says Yusi Fang, and it’s more than just a name for this vegetarian Dongsi eatery; it’s a philosophy and a way of life for the proprietor. “It was a tough three years and now I just want to make people feel happy.”

Reggae beats fill the small and unassuming space at 47 Jiaodaokou Nandajie while the lingering smell of chili oil wafts out the front door. Inside, the fridges are stocked with over one hundred varieties of Japanese rice wine, which makes sense to Yusi as the sake is made from polished rice, and “Chinese people love to consume rice with their food,” she says.

Chef Mantou is proud of the menu which is mostly Chengdu xiaochi (小吃), aka street food. He smiles as his fingers glide effortlessly up and down bamboo shoots, removing the fibrous outer layers with a small paring knife. He is preparing a seasonal menu item: bamboo in Chinese toon (香椿芽 xiāngchūnyá) sauce. “We make a kind of toon pesto, using cashew nuts,” he explains.

I take heed of the chef’s recommendation and try the bamboo dish, despite not being overly familiar with the ingredients. While the floral notes I associate with pesto are nowhere to be found, there is a creamy decadence from the cashews that pairs perfectly with the umami punch of toon. The bamboo segments are cooked perfectly, with a taste reminiscent of both potatoes and artichokes.

The venue’s recent renovation began last year in October and opened to the general public towards the end of December. Despite the rousing success, Yusi remains humble, “I don’t have any secret, I just want to serve good food and drinks,” she laughs. The menu reflects that mission, and while you can see many classics like mapo tofu, you won’t see any plant-based meats or a focus on dishes considered ‘light’ or ‘benign’ as the goal is to walk away feeling satiated.

Yusi doesn’t believe in shortcuts or compromising on taste, and the varied ingredients of their signature chili oil are all sourced from the same marketplace in Chengdu that her mother has been frequenting for decades. “If you want to make authentic tasting Sichuan food, you need to use local ingredients,” she instructs. The results speak for themselves as the restaurant is frequently packed to capacity.

The dumplings in chili oil arrive next, smothered in chili oil and producing columns of steam that fog up my glasses. The oil itself is more of a sauce and not the vibrant red I was expecting, but a darker hue with an array of elements bobbing on the surface. The pungent aroma ensconces me at once, but the spice level is more than tolerable and provides just enough heat to warm the lips and tongue. The dumpling skin feels paper-thin but holds together the delicate mixture of mushroom, radish, and fried tofu admirably.

I gaze around the densely packed room at the minimalist interior and mood lighting which highlight a collection of photographs on the walls provided by renowned local photographer, Yanzi. The series of rugged landscapes, dreary Scandinavian weather, and empty banquet halls are seemingly at odds with the omnipresent buzz and murmurings of this bustling bistro.

As the weather in Beijing invariably warms up and seasonal changes come at a dizzying speed, an assortment of produce that’s only available during springtime becomes available. O Le’s menu will avoid stagnation at all costs as it continues to evolve and expand. The newest addition involves organic broad beans doused in a medicinal-green scallion oil. “Try it out, it’s delicious,” says Mantou.

The overt kindness of the staff is a key feature of this restaurant and bar, and Yusi makes sure to let customers know they’re welcome here; whether it’s the first time or they’re frequent diners: everyone is treated like family.