Local Gem: Is a Bowl of Noodles Ever Worth a 30 Minute Wait?

Local Gem is an exploration of Beijing’s diverse palate. Get out of your comfort zone and try something new! To share your own neighborhood pride, please contact us via editor@thebeijinger.com

Every foodie should have at least one or two experiences of waiting in line for an exorbitant amount of time in this ever-hungry metropolis. Generally speaking, these stories are tied up with holiday breaks or the opening of some new, hip, and Instagrammable restaurant. But what if there was a humble eatery in the heart of downtown Beijing that consistently fills its nearby alley with drooling customers, and that those who go there aren't looking for an expensive Michelin-starred restaurant or something gimmicky like robot waiters, but rather a simple bowl of spicy noodles? Last week, I finally got a chance to visit Fat Sister's Noodle Shop – an emerging star on Beijing's noodle map – and waited in line for around 30 minutes to see if the hype was really warranted.

The shop is located a mere three-minutes walk from Beixinqiao Station on Subway Line 5, and even though its entrance is tucked inside an alley, it's difficult to miss given the long lines that are always spilling out into the street. Don't simply stand in the back of the line though, be sure you grab a number to secure your spot. What's more, if you're dining alone, you may even be able to cut the queue given that there are a few solo seats to be had.

Originally established in Chongqing, the interior design of The Fat Sister’s Noodle Shop’s Beijing branch sets it apart from the flagship location, as well as other unassuming noodle shops in the city. It's full of unique little aesthetic choices like a menu that's written on tags hung above the tables, lending the establishment a quirky balance between high school cafeteria and cyberpunk eatery. Moreover, at a time when people calculate their caloric intake with more precision than their income, Fat Sister’s Noodle Shop prides itself on offering hearty meals, even going so far as to provide patrons with a plastic apron bearing a big, bold “胖“ Fat on it before they tuck into their meal.

For a lesser restaurant to sell itself as a gluttonous feast might be detrimental. However, after one sip of the 碗杂面 pea paste noodles with minced meat, my dining companion, a native of Sichuan Province was sold, proclaiming “Damn, it’s freaking delicious.” Likewise, a good bowl of spicy noodles should never start or end with intolerable heat. The experience should be one hell of an exciting spice roller coaster, taking you through the wonderlands of flavors both known and unknown, an effect masterfully achieved at The Fat Sister's Noodle Shop. They dole out the perfect amount of Sichuan peppercorns, guaranteeing an addictive journey full of that numbing and tingling sensation exclusive to this mysterious spice. 

Besides the noodles, there are many other à la carte dishes for you to choose from, such as beef offal stew, spicy diced lotus, or even spicy pig brain. We opted for the old-fashioned chicken, a small bowl of tenderly cooked and finely chopped chicken marinated in a savory spicy sauce and topped with fresh chili pepper, cilantro, fried garlic, and scallions. The aroma is mouth-watering in and of itself, and each piece of chicken soaks up the sauce well. 

Feeling overwhelmed by the heat, both outside and in your noodle bowl? Fear not, the newly opened Fat Sister’s Sweet Shop is the perfect panacea for all that sweat. Brown sugar rice cake, almond beancurd, or tanghulu gelato are just a few of the options on offer. A sip of the spicy broth followed by a bite of icy sweets are the perfect bookends to a meal at Fat Sister’s. Not to mention their collaboration with Slow Boat, meaning you can pair the craft beer with Fat Sister’s spicy noodle.

Before you hop in a cab and head over to Fat Sister's though, note that the shop is only open around lunchtime (11am-1.30pm) and dinner time (5-8.30pm). Additionally, given this spot's burgeoning reputation, we would suggest you try and swing by on a weekday, lest your experience be dampened by a long line or a particular dish being sold out.

胖妹面庄 Fat Sister's Noodle Shop
11am-1:30pm, 5-8:30pm
No. 69 Dongsi North Street (By the east entrance of Xianger Hutong) 东四北大街69号（香饵胡同东口） 
15801504172

Want your spicy kicks without the line? Early-bird tickets for Hot & Spicy Festival 2020 are on sale now for Aug 14-16

Images: Zeus Zou