You’ll Be Pleasantly Surprised by This New Sanlitun Paella Spot

How could paella put anybody off? That thought reverberated loudly as I tucked into that sumptuous sautéed Spanish style rice at recently opened Sanlitun Soho restaurant Yinghuo Paella. Yes, the prawn, clam and chicken wing loaded pan, all gooey on top and packed with, juicy and flavorful rice, made for an odd poultry and sea combination that was nevertheless savory and hearty enough hit the spot. Its RMB 108 price, meanwhile, put it over the top in terms of value, especially considering it was portioned enough to satisfy two or maybe even three hungry diners. 

And yet I couldn't help but recall a recent trip to Shanghai, at one of the Pearl City’s most popular Spanish eateries, where my Chinese sister in law scoffed at the paella on offer as if it were an abomination because stickier and starchier Chinese rice would always be nearer and dearer to her heart. 

The clientele at this stylish but laid back new restaurant, however, was entirely Chinese and about the same age as my skeptical inlaw. And they showed no such skittishness, wolfing down one spoonful after another from the sizzling pans on their tables. The restaurant is a quintessential example of current dining trends in many first-tier Chinese cities: zeroing in on a flavor de jour foreign dish, marketed entirely at upwardly mobile Chinese millennials hunting for fun new eats on apps like Dianping, served in a fun and accessible fashion. It renders the old trope that expats have become accustomed to – cater to foreigners with trendy international fare, hope that they bring their Chinese friends and then pray that those locals will be satisfied and spread the word – all but obsolete. 

Now, this isn’t the best or most authentic paella we’ve had (the one I feasted on in Shanghai wasn’t so wildly eclectic with its ingredient combinations, for instance). But never the less, the paella we ordered made for a hunger quelling and hefty mix. The straightforwardly satisfying sides, from plump and tender sweet potato wedges (RMB 20 for a bowlful of about half a dozen) to salty and sizzling shrimp skewers (RMB 36), add to the nonchalant yet gratifying vibe. Same goes for the decor, be it the old-timey diner style checked tiles or the engraved wood grain on the walls declaring in bold stylized lettering “Spanish paella” and “tapas” along with the etchings of prawns and other seafood. 

Together these elements make for a laidback, flavorful, and fun meal, and the buzz of Chinese youngster settling in to broaden their palates only adds to this eatery’s already considerable appeal. 

We're eating our way through all of Sanlitun Soho's dining options. Check our progress, here.

Yinghuo Paella
Daily 11am-9.30pm. B1236, Bldg 2, Sanlitun Soho, Chaoyang District (185 1813 2880)
朝阳区三里屯SOHO2号商场下沉广场B1236

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
Instagram: mullin.kyle

Photos: Kyle Mullin