Three Guys Burger House Talk Big, but Do They Cut the Mustard?

“Ok wise guy, let’s see whatcha got,” goes the Italian laced, rugged Brooklyn accented voice in your mind upon entering Three Guys Burger House in Hopson Mall. So what, pray tell, would spark such a goofy and, yes, stereotypical inner dialogue? Why it’s Three Guys’ in-your-face, rough and ready, Big Apple boasts about being a through-and-through authentic all American-style burger bar. The lettering on the wait staff’s shirts cheekily proclaim that the burgers are “handmade”; the walls are lined with big city alley style bricks; Hell’s Kitchen is boldly jotted in chalk behind the counter, and Lady Liberty herself shines brightly from a stenciled metal and light wall hanging. The menu puts an even finer point on the matter, declaring “here’s the deal...” On the cover before going on to bolster the bona fides of their in-house ground beef, signature sauce and overall “handcrafted... artistry” of their burgers. 

But does Three Guys put their money where their mouth is? We were skeptical upon opening the menu, which has pretty lackluster looking photos of their wares along with even more meh monikers like the “large calorie beef burger” (priced at RMB 72 and consisting of a party, a cheese slice, some pickles, ham, and a fried egg); the Hawaiian (costing RMB 78 and which swapped the preceding burger’s egg with a slice of pineapple, much the chagrin of Hawaiian pizza haters); and a classic beef cheeseburger (which pretty much lived up to its name and will set you back RMB 68). 

So far, so lackluster, supposed big NYC sluggers. Why are you charging so much for burgers that lack half of the pizazz and more varied toppings of your seemingly more put together competitor Fat Boys? And yet, the more promising Popeye Burger (RMB 78 and comically topped with surely instant bicep building spinach, mushrooms, ham, cheese, and tomato) and the even better looking Mexican President burger (RMB 78 and featuring a dollop of green guacamole and diced green peppers along with the ham, tomato, and cheese) at least won more points for originality.

There’s also RMB 38 onion rings, Oreo, chocolate, and cookie milkshakes ranging from (RMB 78-88) and a smattering of imported beers like Brooklyn IPA (fittingly enough) and Kwirk Dester Belgian Wheat beer (which was too sweet even for our occasional  Hoegarden inducing palates).

The Mexican President Burger was served up moments after we ordered it, which was alarming for a joint that supposedly prides itself on artisan grub. However, it exceeded our (rapidly falling expectations). The bun was pillowy yet firm. The patty was a little slimmer than I’d like (hefty Arcade and The Local slabs of beef being my go to), but Three Guy’s rendition nevertheless abounded with juicy beefiness and a salvia inducing texture, all of which satisfied despite my preference for bulkier meat (it’s more in line with Cannon’s trimmer patties, though it falls just short of the double take worthy juiciness that that restaurant has built gangbuster success off of). The guacamole and chilies proved to be a solid addition that gave it a colorful zippiness, though I wished it’d been spicier, considering there are plenty of other more conventional burger options on the menu. And the side of fries came pepper dusted making them more memorable than average while still straightforwardly tasty.

The verdict? While not a game changer by any means, Three Guys overcomes some mediocre presentation to deliver a satisfying Mexican themed burger with a few unique flourishes. If they beefed up their menu (har har) with a handful of more creative burgers ala Fat Boys, they’d be able to better stand out in an increasingly competitive scene. The decor is a bit tacky and on the nose but at least it has more personality and ambition than the slew of faceless, forgettable dining options overstuffing the mammoth Hopson mall. So in that respect, we wish more mall eateries had this restaurant’s gumption and chops, though we wish they’d tweak the ambiance and creativity of their menu, so that Three Guys’ could stand among the big guys in Beijing’s burger scene (Cannon’s, Arcade, Slow Boat, Q Mex, Fat Boys, The Local, and so on, all of which are further ahead of this promising but somewhat flawed Hopson One option). 

Get a Handle on All That the Sprawling Hopson Mall Has to Offer With Our Review of the 200-Restaurant-Strong Shopping Center.

Three Guys Burger House
Daily 10am-10pm. 5/F, Hopson Shopping Center, Sai Tai Wang Road and Kwong Kwai Road Junction (next to Jiulongshan subway station on Line 14; east of Shuangjing) (186 0113 7400)
西大望路与广渠路交口合生汇购物中心5F

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Kyle Mullin