Hulu Lives Up to the Hype With Approachable and Wholesome Eats, Breezy Digs

Prior to the opening of their new Hulu restaurant, we Beijingers usually turned to the TRB team anytime we had to splurge to impress. Yes, TRB Hutong and TRB Forbidden City are the kind of places you take your significant other on their birthday, or your parents when they’re in town because the high-end service and ambiance of those restaurants are practically unparalleled in the capital. But now, proprietor Ignace Lecleir and his cohorts may soon become better-known for their elegant comfort food at Hulu.

The new Taikooli restaurant has a far broader appeal thanks to an approachable range of salads, pasta, burgers, beef tartare, and soufflés at prices that will leave you salivating all the more, seeing as most of them run between RMB 60-120. That down-to-earth, low-key sentiment is furthered by the decor: A white and blue color scheme punctuated by a lively splash of pink here and there and huge picture windows that give Hulu an airy, laid-back vibe. We can't wait until the warmer weather arrives so we can take advantage of their wide open terrace (which Cantina Agave also made ample use of over the years until Hulu took this space over). 

During our visit, we were immediately struck by that light and bright atmosphere and our dishes were colorful enough to truly pop in contrast with that minimalist decor. Among the highlights were appetizers like plump hollowed cherry tomatoes stuffed with creamy avocado and tender ground prawns (RMB 42 and 48, respectively), a RMB 42 plateful of quail eggs pan-fried to firmly juicy perfection, a tray of bouncy beef sliders (RMB 68 for three), and lusciously tender flank steak (RMB 148 for 200g, pictured at top). They were all generously portioned and easy to share, a sentiment that TRB has made the crux of this new outing.

However, it was the roast suckling pig stole the show. Featuring a crispy skin that encased meat practically tender enough to melt in your mouth, we have yet to try anything quite like it in Beijing. Best yet, this one, as with many of the dishes, is carved at your table, close enough to hear the flame-kissed skin cracking loudly under the knife and whetting appetites in the process. It was a move reminiscent of the pristine service at TRB's earlier incarnations.

The desserts are also on point, especially the fluffier-than-a-cloud RMB 68 soufflé, and the RMB 58 flaming passion fruit ice cream that was cool, crisp, and chock-full of strawberries. 

Evan Horsman, TRB creative director and head of PR, was clearly disappointed that that dessert didn't burst into Instagram-worthy flames after the waitress slathered it in alcohol and put a lighter to it, though that was a pretty minor quibble considering how crisp and sugary the ice cream was. A few more tweaks, and this dessert is primed to be a bestseller. Sweet tooth patrons will love this item, but others are sure to find it too indulgent. A strong alternative is the subtler hollowed out passion fruit pannacotta (RMB 28 each), with its juicy fruit and velvety yogurt combination filling. 

Horsman went on to admit that TRB's last stab at casual fare, 2016's TRB Bites', was an overall letdown for the team. It flirted with the accessibility now found at Hulu, but remained too rooted in fine dining, enticing the TRB to go all-in with an even more casual approach at this new venue.  

The cocktail menu, which Horsman devised himself, also sports that attitude. It's not fancy, but is certainly fun, functional, and affordable, with a few intriguing upscale flourishes. A prime example is his take on the pina colada, the Hulu Colada (RMB 58), served in a pineapple-shaped copper canister and is loaded with more rum, pineapple, coconut, and overall oomph than typical renditions of this drink.

Their negroni (RMB 58) was nothing special in terms of flavor, but its presentation was decidedly above par thanks to a separate container for refilling, à la a Chinese tea ceremony, along with a bulky ice cube and an orange slice that were both emblazoned with the Hulu logo. 

Horsman's efforts were sturdy in this regard, though TRB owner Ignace Lecleir is Hulu's true star, ditching his proprietor's suit jacket for a chef's apron and getting back in the kitchen to ready this casual yet creative food. Indeed the reasonable prices, prime location and – above all – the dishes' deft balance between gourmet and approachability are all enough to ensure that Hulu is an instant success. 

Hulu
Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-midnight. 3/F, Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun (WeChat: HuluBeijingOfficial, www.hulu-trb.com)
三里屯太古里南区三楼

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
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Photos: Kyle Mullin, courtesy of Hulu