Season's Eatings: Cooking With Versatile Fresh Figs

Figs are one of the best late-summer fruits, second only to cherries in my personal rankings. While you may not necessarily associate figs with China, figs have been enjoyed fresh and dry in China for hundreds of years, with the most common Western cultivar, ficus carica, introduced to China sometime in the early Tang dynasty. Sichuan and Shandong are China's main fig-producing provinces, although they are increasingly being cultivated in Western Chinese provinces such as Xinjiang, as this 2016 China Daily article points out. 

Figs can usually be found at Sanyuanli Market all year round, but during late July to September they will start popping up at more and more stalls. 

The joy of fresh figs is that they are wonderfully versatile, equally happy alongside both sweet and savory ingredients. Niki Segnit's helpful book The Flavor Thesaurus lists figs as pairing well with chocolate, blue cheese, goat's cheese, cinnamon, mint, and foie gras. 

For an easy sweet-salty fig dish, cut a couple of figs into quarters, leaving them connected at the bottom. Stuff with a small piece of soft goat's cheese and press the quarters back together lightly, before wrapping each fig with a slice of prosciutto. Sprinkle with a little extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper and then bake in a hot oven for 15-20 minutes. Drizzle with a little honey before serving. 

Alternatively, for an easy dinner party dessert, try this coconut and fig baked rice, which has the added benefit of being dairy and gluten free. 

Fig and coconut rice pudding
Translated and adapted from Elle à Table

• 200g short-grained rice (I used Cambodian short-grained fragrant rice)
• 500ml coconut milk
• 175g light brown sugar
• 8 eggs
• 6 figs, halved vertically (use the purplish variety for this, not the green ones)
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 
• Butter, for greasing the baking dish

Instructions

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the rice for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, bring half of the coconut milk and 500ml water to the boil in another saucepan.
2. After 3 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pan with the coconut milk. Lower the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 10-15 minutes (this will depend on your rice, check after about 10 minutes). Stir in 150g of sugar. Set the mixture aside to cool.
3. Heat the oven to 200℃ (390℉). Butter a large baking dish (approx. 30cm x 22cm)
4. Warm the coconut milk in a saucepan (do not boil). In another container, beat the eggs then slowly pour in the warmed coconut milk, beating continuously. Strain the coconut-egg mixture into the cooled rice and mix well, then transfer to the buttered baking dish.
5. Arrange the halved figs on top of the rice mixture and sprinkle over the black peppers and remaining sugar.
6. Bake for 30-40 minutes until set, turning down the heat if the pudding is browning too quickly. Good served warm or cold. 

READ: All You Can Eat: Making Good Use of Lotus for Summer

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