Smooth Crossing: Whisky Bridge

If I go to a whiskey bar, I like asking the bartenders to suggest a drink. Alarm bells ring when the bartender “recommends” the most expensive drink. A vacant, open-mouthed expression of terror means you should leave immediately. And nobody wants the “tour guide” who powers his way through blatantly scripted tasting notes. Hiding behind each of these depressing cases is an owner more concerned with profit than customer satisfaction.

The contrast is a place where the staff speak with confidence, making suggestions that invite you away from your fallback choices. Whisky Bridge is one such venue. I reflected on this as the bartender picked out the 14-year-old Arran (RMB 95). Intrigued, I checked my usual urge for the peat-and-smoke of an Islay single malt (a 10-year-old Laphroaig is RMB 90).

Sipping on that Arran, a robust, spicy and slightly sea-salty malt, I noted the restricted view from this “bridge” above the lobby of the stunning Conrad Beijing. There are windows on either side of the long bar, but people-watching opportunities are limited. Like some of Beijing’s Japanese bars, Whisky Bridge almost feels intended as a secret. I imagined the place buzzing with hushed conversations and off-the-record revelations. Perhaps I had been reading too many stories about Edward Snowden.

Time for another drink. Our friendly bartender recommended Noah’s Mill (RMB 90), a 15-year-old bourbon with a punchy 57.1 percent ABV. At that strength, the flavor is sharp, but sweet and smooth enough to savor slowly on the tongue. When the glass ran dry, the bartender pulled out a bottle of Lagavulin. Excellent choice, but it was time to be moving on. A hotel bar means hotel prices, and all orders come with a 15 percent service charge. Whisky Bridge also offers quality tapas and cold cuts, and there are plenty of other drinks. Still, they named the bar for a reason – eventually, they’ll be stocking 130 reasons to visit.

Also try: Ichikura, Ritz-Carlton Bar.