Toyo Jazz: Indigo's Japanese Option

Watching chefs shuck oysters and slice sashimi beneath a bank of glowing bulbs, you can feel Toyo grasping at the quiet sophistication of Beijing’s best Japanese restaurants. Greatness falls beyond its reach, but Toyo has value for money and reliability in its favor.

The food deserves better than to be tagged as Indigo’s “Japanese option.” Ten types of French oysters (RMB 38-88) are listed, but availability varies. Ordered by the piece, the plump Gillardeau N1 and Marseilles N1 tested well for freshness, with a squeeze of lemon and a dash of spicy soy and mashed daikon dressing adding bite. A six-piece oyster platter costs RMB 240.

Though some items are a bit overpriced (particularly the RMB 40-50 noodle and rice dishes), there’s good value to be found. The salmon sashimi platter (RMB 38), featuring hefty slices of salmon, is a case in point. Similarly, individual pieces of sushi average around RMB 10-20 per piece. Though neither the sushi nor sashimi ranks among Beijing’s very best, Toyo’s efforts are satisfying. The tempura includes meat and seafood varieties, as well as the mixed veg option (RMB 38) I tried. The batter was crisp and light, allowing the sweet potato, mushrooms and carrots to hang on to their natural flavors.

Being asked to pay while you’re still eating is never endearing, less so when the transaction involves the banalities of securing a fapiao. I spent the rest of the meal thinking about work, which I had hoped not to. Still, Toyo was likeable enough that I’ll let them off the hook. Just this once.

Also try: Starfish, Sake Manzo

Toyo Jazz Daily 10am-10pm. Shop L258, 2/F, Indigo Shopping Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (8426 0898, 8426 0599) 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业中心2层L258底商

By subway: 4km northeast of Sanyuanqiao station (Line 10)

Photo: Lova