Back in the Flo of Things: The New Brasserie Flo

Brasserie Flo opened the doors of its new location on Xiaoyun Lu in late March, but the team got off to a quiet start as it settled into its new home. We dropped by for dinner last week and were awed by the restaurant's ability to act as a haven from the pressures of the city.

The walk up to the new Flo sets the tone. On the way in, you pass the windows of the main dining room, looking in on the diners you're about to join. It's an uncanny experience that's augmented by the hazy glow of the lighting and the classic decorations. I know it sounds dramatic, but if you let yourself get caught up in the nostalgia of it, entering Brasserie Flo feels a bit like time traveling or teleporting to another reality.

Given the chance to design its own location, the Flo Group dove fully into the brasserie concept. We've got a full review coming soon, but, briefly, Flo's food continues to be some of the best French food in town, which is to say that it's among the best overall.

Flo's strengths lie in brasserie specialties: choucroute, seafood, foie gras and steak. Oysters are flown in fresh from France twice a week. The waiter recommended the Gillardeau No. 2 (RMB 58 each) as the most popular on the menu.

The Australian beef tenderloin with morel sauce (RMB 288) made the rest of the world disappear as it melted onto my tongue. I'd recommend ordering this rare if you can handle it. My companion's medium-rare steak was excellent, but the rare version was sublime.

Judging by the full crowd last week, Brasserie Flo's regulars have already rediscovered the place after their months-long wait for it to reopen. If you're planning a visit, you'll likely need a reservation. You might have some luck getting in for a late dinner, though, as I'm told that local clientele prefer to eat early there. Also, Flo still has its popular power lunch set menu (two courses, RMB 88, three courses, RMB 118). It's a great entry point for trying out the place. The restaurant is also hoping to launch a weekend brunch and outdoor terrace dining in coming weeks.

The new Brasserie Flo has raised the bar for fine dining in this town, and I fully expect said bar to go even higher once the terrace and brunch are in full swing.

Brasserie Flo
Daily 11am-11pm. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, King’s Garden Villa, Chaoyang District (6595 5135)
朝阳区京润水上花园霄云路18号

Photos: Josh Ong