Hong Lu: Old Beijing Cuisine for Modern Palates

The restaurateurs behind modish Yunnan eatery Middle 8th have squeezed more juice out of their creative kumquat, this time on our capital’s cuisine. Yep – grey, gloopy Beijing grub is going up in the world.

First impressions are promising. A sunny white space and clear English descriptions of dishes too often lost in translation. An order of chilled zhajiang mian (RMB 18) was sweet and punchy, and we all cooed at the “Four Old Beijing Specials” (RMB 48). This sassy, self-assembly concept combines papery pancakes, preserved ham, shrimp-flavored scrambled eggs and some wickedly salty-sour pickles with a flavor that lingered, not altogether pleasantly, for hours.

Sweet-and-sour fried fish (RMB 58) was another highlight, balanced dramatically like a classical bronze sculpture, its sticky sauce coating shatteringly crisp skin and silkily soft meat.

Despite some overassertive flavors, Hong Lu is doing more than just sexing up local favorites. With a bit of creative license, they’re casting light on the true scope of Beijing cuisine.

Standout dishes: “Four Old Beijing Specials,” special roast duck

Also try: Najia Xiaoguan, Xiao Wang Fu

Hong Lu. Daily 11.30am-11pm. 6 Sanlitun Nanlu (150m south of The Bookworm), Chaoyang District (6593 8970) 朝阳区三里屯南路6号（书虫往南150米）