Capital Bites: Ferran Adria, New Ganges, Pizza, Steak at China Grill and David Sedaris Dumps on Chinese Food

Ferran Adria, the man behind the El Bulli legend, is coming to Beijing for a one-off cooking demonstration on August 23. The event will take place at the Raffles hotel and will be the first of four days of Spanish-themed events headed up by chef Dani Garcia of the acclaimed Calima restaurant.

Adria will only be here for that one event, and no doubt there'll be a lot of interest in his visit, though we haven't had word yet as to whether the demonstration class will be open to the public. We'll let you know more when we have it, but for now, have a bit of fun with this El Bulli dish name generator, courtesy of Slate.com.

A number of my colleagues are all raving this morning about a Cantonese restaurant on Gongti Beilu called HK O'Man (or Lao Keng Ji). They visited last night and by all accounts were very impressed. I'll get a proper review out of one of them once they've calmed down.

The new branch of Kro's Nest is taking shape just next to Salsa Caribe and d lounge, though no opening date just yet. In other pizza news, we hear Gung Ho! are getting closer to opening a second base, around the Lido area.

Kamat's has given up the ghost on the second floor of Paddy O'Shea's, but the curry and Guinness fun goes on with Ganges moving in soon to fill the gap and add yet another outpost to their Indian empire.

Our August issue featured this review of Big Boss. It seems the place has closed down already, as several readers have reported seeing it completely lifeless whenever they've passed by.

Japanese ramen chain Aijisen has run into hot water over claims their soup is not made from boiled-down chicken bones – did anyone believe that to begin with? – but rather from a powder mix. We'll have more on this early next week, but you may find branches of Aijisen a little emptier than usual this weekend.

I had the pleasure of a visit to China Grill at the Park Hyatt earlier this week, and among other things on chef Jens Muenchenbach's new menu, enjoyed a steak of 21-day dry aged Australian beef. Salty on the outside, grilled with just the right amount of charring, and slightly rare inside, the meat didn't even need any sauce, mustard or other accompaniment. Well worth a try for diners who don't mind spending a bit on a good steak.

Finally, for a bit of light weekend reading material, this article in the Guardian by David Sedaris on his experiences with Chinese food has gotten up a few people's noses. I can sympathize with the poor man wondering where to wash his hands after a father has held up his kid to take a slash in the sink, but for an obviously gifted, intelligent writer, the tone of the piece is disappointingly snide and the content basically something anyone who just got off the plane could come up with. So you came to China and saw somebody spitting? The meat sometimes has bones in it? You could read that on the Beijinger forum, even if the writing isn't as good. Mr. Sedaris also claims that "In Beijing, you see an overwhelming amount of shit." A bit like reading the British press, then.

Comments

New comments are displayed first.

Comments

A Big Boss update. An "anonymous source" tells me that their closure was only temporary and that they may well be back in business soon. Rest assured, we'll let you know one way or another when the final outcome is clear, one way or another.

Thanks to aforementioned anonymous source for the kind tip-off.

The Cleaver Quarterly: A new print magazine taking a playful look at Chinese food as a global phenomenon. Issue 1 out May 2014

thecleaverquarterly.com

If you put the David Sedaris article in the context of travel writing, I agree it may be refreshing that it's not gushing and all happy-happy.

And yeah, much of it is true. What's disappointing is that there's almost no insight here that any other tourist just off the plane couldn't also have gleaned for themselves. Some of this stuff is common knowledge even to people who've never been to China. Maybe I'm wrong in expecting more out of a fairly well-respected writer who's obviously a smart guy.

The Cleaver Quarterly: A new print magazine taking a playful look at Chinese food as a global phenomenon. Issue 1 out May 2014

thecleaverquarterly.com

I reckon a year or two ago the Sedaris piece would have p~ssed me off, but actually thought it was funny and (at times) spot on. Probably means I've outstayed my welcome in the Middle Kingdom. But seriously. Spitting has got to go. Actually, spitting isn't nearly a powerful enough word for the multi-part act of hocking, shaping in mouth, taking aim ... pausing ... and then deploying. Just gives you so much time to think about it after the initial noise. It's like counting the seconds between thunder and lightning.

Click here and your wildest dreams will come true.

good satire of sedaris's remarks

http://www.thehypermodern.com/2011/07/26/china-is-icky/

"I don’t get why Chinese people can’t act like civilized people, like Westerners. I don’t mean to be racist here, but what are they, retarded or something? They spit on the street and don’t use diapers and piss in sinks. I mean, I might be able to accept that if their per capita GDP were six times less than America’s. Or if their traditional culture and beliefs had been beaten out of them by 30 years of deleterious class struggle, but—and I haven’t read any books or anything—I’m pretty sure that didn’t happen."

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20

I read the Guardian piece and was a bit shocked at first as it was downright blunt in places, and being a lover of Chinese food I couldn't help but feel defensive.

At the same time it was refreshing to see such an honest travel/food article which didn't follow the usual arc of gushing praise of the local cuisine with giggles about the various oddities on offer.

Such an article would have no place in a magazine like the Beijinger but we can only assume most of the readers would be less familiar with Beijing or China.

It wasn't elegant or graceful in tone - but let's face it, it is all more or less true.

Validate your mobile phone number to post comments.