Comically Inauthentic: London Restaurant & Cafe at Gongti

Incongruous moments are a dime a dozen in Beijing, but bringing our kids to this restaurant catering to Gongti clubbers proved unusually weird.

The children didn’t know what to make of the violet chairs embossed with kissing cupids and pillows decorated with images of Jesus, but they did warm to the equine decorative theme, especially the life-size horse statue bearing a lamp. Assisted by a kind English-speaking manager, we navigated the globe-spanning menu of sashimi, foie gras, Mexican steak and big name, status-affirming bottles of Bordeaux.

Things took a comically inauthentic turn with the complimentary “bruschetta,” slices of white bread topped with flavor-free melted cheese and dollops of ragù that tasted like it came straight out of the can, from which the adults sought consolation in the remains of a stiff gin and tonic (RMB 40). The mains came in staggered order, with a ten-minute delay between the spaghetti bolognese (RMB 58), featuring the now familiar ragù, and lamb chops (RMB 68) – only one of which was served medium as ordered – accompanied by a mysterious green puree and defrosted fries.

At least these dishes were edible. Not so the nasi goreng (RMB 58) that featured a fried egg over lukewarm clusters of hard rice mixed with barely visible bits of chicken and shrimp and two amusement park-style chuan’r of mystery meat and tendons.

Admittedly, my clubbing days are long past, but it is hard to imagine how any amount of partying could mask the dreadful quality of such fare.

London Restaurant & Café
Daily 5pm-2am. Gate 2, Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District (6779 8888)
伦敦之夜餐厅, 朝阳区朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内2号进口

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