First Look at Blue Frog's New Taikoo Li Location; Pizza Express to Open in May

Starting last summer, enforcement of fire safety regulations at Taikoo Li has resulted in the closure, move, or large-scale renovation of some of the Sanlitun shopping complex's best-known restaurants, including Modo, which became Modo Urban Deli, Karaiya Spice House, and now, Blue Frog.

On Saturday, Blue Frog, one of Taikoo Li's original tenants (way back in 2008, when we called it The Village), leaped over about 50 meters to its new premises, a space back near Greyhound Cafe formerly occupied by Spice Spirit. On Sunday, the Beijinger went for a look-see.

The new spot is similarly bright and, well, blue, as the original incarnation, with one significant change: about one-third of the lower floor is occupied by a long, narrow bar not far from the entrance. While this is an improvement over the small working bar in the first Frog, its proximity to the door, and therefore, the draft, will reduce its popularity in the winter.

Another third of the restaurant's seating spreads out around the non-smoking bar, with the remainder occupied by booths and tables close to the windows, an area wait staff recommended we avoid because they are a bit cold. Near the bar and in the middle of the restaurant lies one of its most interesting features, what looks like a Balinese cone of spiritual silence, a wooden latticework box that hangs over part of the bar area. While its purpose is obviously to create a divider between the bar crowd and the nearby dining area, it only succeeds in breaking sight lines and making a large bar area look much smaller. It certainly won't reduce noise, and being mounted from the ceiling, could make patrons nervous if it starts to swing when struck.

Bar patrons will be pleased that the bathrooms have moved to the lower floor, and are just behind the bar's service area now. However, unlike their earlier upstairs versions, these don't have a view.

The biggest change of course is the upstairs, which is now similar to that of Cantina Agave: little more than an entryway to outdoor seating. Gone are the pool table (sniff) and what used to be the best see-and-be-seen seats in Taikoo Li to change the second floor into something more of an aerial deck. When the weather warms up it will be interesting to see if the Frog's following goes with it to its new, slightly less central deck.

While there, I tried the Mile High Burger, a new addition to Blue Frog's former Burger Cup-winning hamburger menu. This thing is just a monster: two beef patties, one with cheese on top and one wrapped in bacon; a few battered, fried onions; rocket and tomato, a bit of mayonnaise on a whole wheat bun, served with a little bit of rocket salad and Blue Frog's lackluster fries. Cut it in half because it would be impossible to finish it, even picking it up is a challenge. But it doesn't disappoint. The burger wasn't dry, and all the flavors can be enjoyed together without any overpowering the other. It'll set you back RMB 90, but most likely it will also serve as two meals.

What will happen to the old Blue Frog space? UK chain Pizza Express is expected to open there in May, according to sources familiar with the situation. Also, Hotpot Express, slated to move into the former Chao Dian space between Flamme International Grill and Union Bar and Grille, may see its opening delayed or cancelled, sources said. Never a dull moment there in Taikoo Li.

Blue Frog
Level 3, S2-30 Tower, the Village North Sanlitun Road, Sanlitun, Chaoyang Distinct
三里屯北路19号三里屯Village南区2号楼3层S2-30, 朝阳区

Photos: Steven Schwankert