Tacos and Tamales: New Mexican Restaurant, Xalapa

Named for the capital of the state of Veracruz on the coast of Mexico, Xalapa Mexican Restaurant is Beijing's latest newcomer in the Mexican cuisine scene (see here for its predecessor, El Gran Bocado). I generally don't jump at the chance to eat Mexican here, saving up for burrito binging whenever I'm back in California. But when I saw a few pictures of Xalapa, I was convinced to drop my guard.

The space feels warm and inviting – akin to the kind of taqueria you might find in California, and from talking with owner Esteban Zottele, in Xalapa as well. Having spent many years in Xalapa, Zottele first opened the original branch of the restaurant in his home country of Argentina in 1996. You may know Mistica Cafe near the Renmin University stop (Line 4) which he opened in 2006 here in Beijing.

Xalapa sits next to new craft brew outpost, NBeer, on the famous snack street Huguosi just west of Gulou. While it's likely to become a neighborhood staple for me, I recognize that for many English-speakers, this may be a bit of a jaunt from the usual haunts. My first impressions though? It's worth the trip if you are seeking Mexican eats. 

The menu is fairly wide ranging: quesadillas (RMB 39-45), tortas (RMB 32-45), burritos (RMB 40-55), tamales (RMB 40), sopas (RMB 40-42), flautas (RMB 40), enchiladas (RMB 50-60) and fajita platters (RMB 65-75) as well as some plates such as pollo con mole (RMB 65).

Xalapa is home to the jalapeno pepper, and the kitchen doesn't hold back the spice here – though we were quick to be warned on ordering certain dishes. Guacamole (RMB 35) was creamy and fully satisfying, although I found that the salsas served with complimentary housemade chips to be outstanding – a nuanced balance of flavor and spiciness.

The sopa Azteca was the greatest hit of the evening – a tomato-based broth with dollops of cream, shredded chicken, cilantro and kind of spice that edges on painful, but in an entirely pleasant way. I'm very much looking forward to a return for the sopa hongos (RMB 28), a mushroom soup with corn and vegetables.

The Mexican Embassy held a party there the previous evening before our visit – this in itself should speak to something good about the place –  and had cleaned the kitchen of several items on the menu. We were happily able to snag one of the last tamales (RMB 40 for two). Pretty on point in terms of tastes, though my dining companion wished for a bit more chicken. The chipotle sauce accompanying is quite excellent.

The tacos al pastor (RMB 49) arrived on homemade corn tortillas with a side of black beans – delcious – and, cheerfully, more chipotle sauce. Nice to see more al pastor on the Beijing market.

The sturdiness of the housemade corn tortillas were particularly well-suited to the enchiladas which we ordered Sonora-style (RMB 55) with a red, somewhat sweet tomato sauce and two fried eggs. It's certainly enough food for two. Besides the rice, which didn't merit much attention, the dish was excellent and I'd definitely be interested in trying more of the variations (mole, green sauce, bandera – red and green sauce) on a return visit.

So, the meal was solid, but whoa, dessert. The offerings are extensive with standards like arroz con leche (RMB 18), flan (RMB 25) and a tres leche cake (RMB 30), but also a delightful thing called pastel de Uruapan (a city in Michoacán) which involves various dried fruits, walnuts, a custardy layer and a crispy top.

The verdict is that it's certainly worth checking out if you are on the look-out for Mexican food. They have a lunch special (RMB 30, 10.30am-3pm) which is a set menu of a chicken burrito, quesadilla, flautitas, or ham and cheese torta with the choice of mushroom soup or a soft drink (Coke or Sprite). Also of note is the afternoon set (RMB 30, 3-6pm) which includes a slice of cake (tres leche, Uruapan, or flan) plus a coffee or a tea.

Xalapa Mexican Restaurant
1/F, Huguo Xintiandi, 85 Huguosi Dajie, Xicheng District (6212 1218)
西城区护国寺大街85号护国新天地一层

Photos: Cat Nelson

Email: catnelson@thebeijinger.com
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