Lucky Lopez Mexican Grill Opens in Jianwai Soho

There is something that sets your mind at ease when you walk into a restaurant and see an assembly line before you, ready to build a burrito with the same finesse and efficiency afforded to a Ford Model T automobile. Lucky Lopez Mexican Grill, which opened June 21, can load, roll, and wrap your burrito in 30 seconds flat. But it'll take you longer than half a minute to eat the meal, which, bundled in a 12’’ flour tortilla, is a hefty package.

The décor has modernized the traditional Southwestern theme with a wood-slat ceiling, brushed stainless steel tables, and a vibrant color scheme. Black-and-white photos of rodeos and mariachi bands line the walls. The menu, with English and Chinese descriptions, hangs behind the food line and the prices are more than reasonable.

The pork burrito (RMB 24) is a pleasing mix of textures – crunchy lettuce, creamy guacamole, runny red picante salsa, and tender pork. The flavors are a little muted, but the cilantro flavoring hits nicely and the salsa puts up a respectable fight. The pork is nicely cooked and salted, though it could have used more spice. The chips that come with the meal walk a fine line between dry and greasy and are sturdy enough to shovel the ingredients that have fallen out of your burrito without breakage.

Besides burritos, Lucky Lopez also serves tacos, chili and tamales. While the fish tacos (RMB 14) don’t make much of an impression, the Texas-style chili (RMB 20) is a highlight with a generous meat-to-bean ratio.

Lucky Lopez is a great value, with pricing just a tiny bit cheaper than the similarly positioned Avocado Tree, now just off Xiaoyun Lu. You can fill (or even overfill) your stomach for less than RMB 30, guaranteed. Alas – guacamole, no matter where in the world, costs extra (RMB 14).

Lucky Lopez Mexican Grill. Daily 11am-8pm. Rm 0827, 1/F, Bldg 8, Jianwai Soho, Henghui Donglu, Chaoyang District (5900 0820)朝阳区恒惠东路建外Soho8号楼1层0827号