Yuanmingyuan Ice & Snow Festival: Dry Escape into Boredom

A lack of snow on top of a lack of snow completely killed any excitement I may have had upon arrival at Yuanmingyuan’s Ice and Snow Festival earlier this week. Yuanmingyuan devoid of people didn’t help (why open mid-week?).

Admittedly only in the organisers’ worst nightmares could they possibly envisaged such a dry winter. However, creating an event that is so dependent on heavy snow in Beijing is a high risk gamble. Walking around the park, it becomes apparent that they tried to bring Harbin to Beijing and failed.

Not having to queue at the ticket booth inspired little hope for what I would see inside. (RMB 30). Staff outnumbered patrons by about 12 to 1. A lake that had been drained and converted into a sea of snow (man-made) felt about as populated as the Sea of Tranquility. It is here you can slide down embankments on rubber tubes (RMB 80/hour), accompanied by the obligatory techno music.

Walking through the barren, snowless paths of Yuanmingyuan I arrived to the next snow field, designated for 'skiing' (RMB 80/hour) and inflatable ball rides (RMB 35/run) - and more doof. My expectations of the 'ski slopes' were never high. For starters, Yuanmingyuan has no discernible hill. As it turned out, the 'ski run' is no more than 200 metres long with a slope that makes a runway look steep. Ditto the slope for the giant balls.

Strolling further through the increasingly desolate park (was I being watched?) I encountered the ‘ice’ area, currently closed. However when it does open, the activities will be much the same as those at any lake in Beijing during winter (skating, chairing etc, prices TBD). Although, I couldn’t help but be excited after noticing signs for ice dodgem cars.

Of course, frolicking in the snow (or absolute lack thereof) can be experienced with far less satisfaction on horseback. For RMB 20 you can ride around an enclosure no larger than a backyard swimming pool - twice! If I really loved horses I could do this for an hour (RMB 120). Alternatively I could be slowly sled-pulled by hand guided Alaskan huskies for the low price of RMB 100. The Iditarod it ain't. After witnessing both of these events, I would still prefer to waste my money at a ‘traditional tea festival’.

But I better not forget the guns! After walking around the park, I noticed a small enclosure (again empty of both people and the white stuff) full of mini-forts and wooden boxes. Paintball in the snow? Finally something to get excited about? Nope. Laser-tag (RMB 35/8 minute session) in the snow - only there is no snow. Or people. Or darkness. Alas.

Next to the first snow area at the southern entrance are several little food yurts selling typical Beijing snack foods at slightly inflated prices (RMB 5 for chuan'r and corn 10 RMB for soft drink). A 'Taiwan food hall' hasn’t yet opened.

When fully operational, the wide variety of activities (laser tag, ice dodgem cars, dancing, ice sculptures) make Yuanmingyuan a far more desirable venue than the overpriced equivalent at the Bird’s Nest. That said, no amount of snow could save the horses and dogs. Overpriced and just plain terrible. Ditto the skiing. Avoid like you would avoid the plague.

The Ice and Snow Festival isn’t entirely a bad place. Certainly, this review painted a bad picture due it being a dry fortress of boring. I’m sure this place would be more energetic on a snowy weekend. The organizers have tried really hard to accommodate everyone’s interests, even if most of the activities are dull.

If it snows, and you do go, remember to bring a good wad of cash with you. Whilst the activities aren’t too expensive (excluding the animals, which is highway robbery), most require a RMB 300 deposit, and clothing rental is RMB 30.

But until it snows, don’t bother.

Ice and Snow Festival, Yuanmingyuan (Old Summer Palace). 28 Qinghua Lu, Haidian. Subway Line 4, exits A and B. RMB30 (entry ticket only) Open Daily 9-5pm, from December 22 to February 17.