Home Girl: Liu Lu fashions a career in China

Most Chinese designers have set their sights on international fashion hotbeds like Paris, Milan and New York. At least one, however, has her eyes fixed firmly on China.

Liu Lu majored in fashion design at the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York, where her graduation work, “nest,” won her the school’s Golden Thimble award in 2006. She proceeded to work as an intern for the renowned fashion stylist GK Reid, helping him style high-profile celebrities such as Puff Daddy, Nelly Furtado and Rihanna.

In 2007, at the age of 25, the designer gave up her potential career in New York, choosing to return to China and launch a business here instead. We caught up with Liu Lu recently to ask about her ambitions for her label, Lu12.28.

the Beijinger: Why return to China when you had a bright future in New York?
Liu Lu:
As an up-and-coming fashion designer, I think Beijing is a good place to start. When the business grows, I can always take my brand with me to Paris or New York. Also, “Made in China” has been a hot issue in the West. Everybody is paying attention to the Chinese fashion industry now.

tbj: For a designer, what’s the difference between New York and Beijing?
LL:
New Yorkers love to shop at independent design boutiques. Beijingers still follow the mass production brands in the big malls.

tbj: Where does the name Lu12.28 come from?
LL:
My given name and birthday. Name is something that is given to you, but birthday is something you were born into. According to astrology, the date on which you were born gives you your unique identity and personality. Most fashion designers name their brand after themselves; none has ever named it after their birthday.

tbj: How do you describe the style of Lu12.28?
LL:
My creations are for a lady who is very smart, sexy, and chic; she is between 25-40, is independent and has money to spend. Prices range from RMB 1,000-2,000 for the summer collection, and RMB 1,000-4,000 for the winter collection. I also want to make Lu12.28 exclusive and unique. My Nali Patio shop now only deals with VIP guests or by appointment.

tbj: Wedding gowns are associated with happiness and sweetness. But your recent fashion show presented a whimsical bridal collection called “Skull Bride.” What was the inspiration?
LL:
The inspiration was from my ex-lover Armando, who didn’t believe in marriage. In his eyes, a bride is the devil who is taking his freedom away, and marriage is the killer of romance. So “Skull Bride” is a very pale collection that uses tons of white. In the West, white symbolizes purity; on the other hand, white is the color of death in the East. By combining these two interpretations of the color white, I’m trying to depict the fear of commitment, and to imply that marriage might be the death of the romance in a relationship.

tbj: How do you protect the exclusivity of your designs?
LL:
For certain items, I have my own textile designer to create special fabrics. There is also a story behind each season’s collection; all the looks add up to one complete collection. They might be able to copy one item, but they can’t copy the soul, the story, the inspiration of the complete collection.

tbj: Which designers do you particularly admire?
LL:
Too many to name them all. On the art side, I love Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano. On the commercial side, I love Donna Karan and Stella McCartney.