Très Bien: First Impressions of Chez Julien on Lucky Street

Despite its name, I haven't had the best of fortune at Lucky Street, but our luck is about to change with the arrival of Parisian-style bistro Chez Julien. It's serving up authentic, affordable French cuisine in a welcoming atmosphere.

You might recognize the "Julien" part of the restaurant's name as that of Julien Gaudfroy, one of Beijing's most masterful Chinese speakers. I can't promise he'll be there all the time, but you at least have a shot at witnessing a bona fide lao wai celebrity. Just don't be surprised if you come out realizing you should have studied more in Chinese class. Fortunately, Julien's brother Charles is the manager and his Chinese will make you feel better. As will the food.

The restaurant is still in soft open, so they have yet to launch their a la carte menu, but it should be coming in a few weeks. We tried their three course Evening set menu (RMB 130) this week and found it to be an excellent value.

For starters, bacon flavor permeated a quiche lorraine in a way that spoke to my bacon-loving heart. (I mean that metaphorically because my actual heart lives in constant fear of the stuff.) Another starter, a hot goat cheese salad with honey, waltzed across my mouth, alternating between sweet and tart with sweet taking the lead.

Next up, we tried the beef bourguignon and tartiflette. The stewed beef was appropriately complex with hints of wine, but it was the tartiflette that stole the show. This was my first encounter with this glorious French invention, and I'm asking myself where it's been all my life. Potatoes, lardons (aka bacon) and a melty mound of reblochon cheese are packed like tasty gunpowder waiting to explode in your mouth. It's a heavy dish, so it's not for the faint of heart – your physical heart, I mean. Maybe go for a run or something after you eat this to keep your body in equilibrium. It's worth it.

We tried a couple of desserts that weren't listed on the set menu; we weren't sold on them. Given the French talent for dessert, I'm still hopeful that they've got sweets that are noteworthy, but we'll have to wait for a future visit to confirm that.

Since they're still in soft open, closing time has yet to be firmly set, so you'll probably want to call before going if it's on the later side.

Chez Julien is going to draw some comparisons to Café de la Poste. They're both putting out solid French food without introducing some of the fuss or unnecessary pretention that sometimes accompanies the cuisine. Where Chez Julien differs is that with its diverse bistro menu, it has stepped into the middle ground between Yonghegong's pocket-friendly steak specialist and the likes of Flo and Boulud.

Chez Julien
Daily 11.30-9.30pm. Unit B12, Lucky Street, 1 Chaoyang Park Xilu (5867 0218)
朝阳区朝阳公园西路1号好运街B12单元