Old Beijing Is Dead, Long Live the New Mojito Man

There’s no greater sign of gentrification in Beijing than Mojito Man opening a semi-respectable bar. You read that right: Mojito Man, the gritty Sanlitun nightlife institution that slung takeaway and namesake drinks made with questionable alcohol. The one that practically helped give Dirty Bar Street its name. The one that fell victim to Beijing’s crackdown on unproperly licensed street-level businesses. That Mojito Man is back. Where exactly? In the basement of a Xindong Lu apartment complex, just below ground level spots like XL Bar and Herbal.

Aside from its more stable location, Mojito Man 2.0’s (8.5's?) atmosphere will also make you feel like you’ve entered a new era far removed from Dirty Bar Street’s globes days. Rows of tables are set up outside, nearly all occupied on a recent Friday night by Chinese patrons watching the World Cup on a projector screen. Inside another screen also broadcast the game, and numerous young, not well-to-do but certainly trendy Chinese customers sat by the bar or on stools at tall tables. Yes, this wasn't the usual riff-raff of yore, and a testament to Mojito Man's new, swisher digs. 

Here’s the real shocker: two staff members wielded shakers behind the bar with smooth professionalism. Not the bow-tied speakeasy vibe akin to nearby cocktail lounges like Mason, Ginger, and Finders Keepers but compared to Mojito Man’s prior incarnation, it was night and day.

Thankfully, some things never change. The bartenders ask if you want your drink “for here or to go,” for those wanting to stumble around the Sanlitun streets. Heartened that Mojito Man’s legacy takeaway debauchery was still intact, we scanned the menu, which includes the modestly named and flagship “fine Mojito” made with Bacardi and priced at RMB 30 (again true the Mojito Man legend). There are also a few stabs at the top-shelf echelons like the “high-grade Mojito” made with three-year-old Havana for RMB 40, the “top-level Mojito” with seven-year-old Havana for RMB 60, and the “big-ass mojito” for RMB 188. There are also classic cocktails like Black Russians and cosmos for RMB 35, shots of Jager, Captain Morgan, and Jameson in the RMB 20 neighborhood, a “lady’s love” section with Baileys, Malibu, and various other cocktails. For those less spirits-inclined there's also a fridge stocked with a handful of beers. Snazzy indeed. 

Feeling the weight of this special occasion, I eschewed the RMB 30 “fine mojito” made with Bacardi and went for the RMB 40 Havana “high-grade Mojito.” Its name echoed in my head as I looked at the cup’s elaborate logo and, get this, a very official looking Mojito Man QR code. 

Taking a slurp, the drink’s fancy menu description dissolved. No precise balance of ingredients and flavors. Just a sucker punch of practically straight alcohol, barely tempered by a slushy mix that must’ve sunk to the bottom of the cup. A wince on account of the drink's sheer alcoholic soon gave way to a smile as we realized that you can certainly force the Mojito Man off of Dirty Bar Street but you’ll never get the Dirty Bar Street spirit out of the Mojito Man. 

Mojito Man
Daily 6pm-4am. B1-029, North Area of Shoukai Bojun, 8 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District (‭186 1232 1379‬)
首开铂郡南区地下一层广场B1-029(泰和国医处下楼梯)

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
Instagram: mullin.kyle

Photos: Kyle Mullin