The “House of Zhang Qun” lurks behind an old fading wooden door with the number 5 written on it, on Yandai Xiejie (“Bending Pipe Street”). This one-table restaurant was opened several years ago by Beijing artist Zhang Qun, initially as a hangout for friends. Later, Ms. Zhang decided to open the small venue to the public as a way of introducing her native Suzhou cuisine.
The yangchun mian (阳春面) is an unforgettable bowl of noodles with the captivating fragrance of spring onion. The appetizers of the set menu includes barbequed pork and soy sauce duck, as well as dishes based on two indigenous ingredients of Zhang’s hometown: “chicken head grains” (鸡头米 jitoumi) flavored with osmanthus, and yaoqin (药芹), a type of celery that is most often stir-fried or tossed as a salad. Other notable dishes include a milky broth of fish and beancurd, a cluster of shrimps tossed in hot oil with a spin of egg white and a pinch of salt. Set meals range from RMB 200-600 per person; each includes a large number of appetizers, hot dishes and a dessert, all selected by Ms. Zhang.
The natural light shining through the small skylight, the scattered books, fresh-cut flowers, and old furniture give this eatery the warm and welcoming feeling of a friend's home. TEMPORARILY CLOSED UNTIL APRIL 2010.
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