Wu Ge Kaochi 五哥烤翅

The hardest table to get in the capital is not at a five-star restaurant but at this grubby little barbecue. The walls are peeling and the floors sticky, but the chicken wings are smoky and rich, crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. One bite, and you’ll realize why customers throng the alley outside night after night. Internet trolls have painted the no-nonsense owner, Wu Ge, as an ogre-ish Soup Nazi, but he seems quite sweet to us.