The Old Dragon’s Head at Shanhaiguan is the only part of the Great Wall you can see at the beach – fully restored to its former glory and jutting into the waves with imposing splendor. Built in 1381, the pass doubles as a museum of ancient armor and weaponry (RMB 40), with commanding stone soldiers protecting the fortifications. Inside, Shanhaiguan remains all marble pathways and old courtyards, simple and traditional surroundings that give the city a genuine
atmosphere. Climb up the arrow tower above the pass itself for a clear perspective of just how formidable the gate appeared to prospective invaders. Outside the city, there are two appealing locations to enjoy the Great Wall proper. For the adventurous, the Wall’s ascent into the Hebei Mountains at Jiaoshan is a near-vertical climb along some rugged stonework (taxi RMB 10). The other, and perhaps more important Great Wall attraction, is the Old Dragon’s Head itself – Laolongtou on the sea. For RMB 50, this is a developed tourist spot and there’s a lot more to see than the Wall. The original navy barracks at the seaside has been rebuilt, and visitors can imagine life as a Ming-dynasty naval soldier stationed there. 山海关,河北省秦皇岛市
Approx. distance: 315km
Bus: Regular long-distanc e buses leave from major stations around Beijing and take three hours.
Train: Besides temporary tourist trains, 18 daily trains from Beijing stop at Shanhaiguan. Direct trains are slow and leave at odd times – you’re best off taking the D5 route to Shanhaiguan, leaving at 9.20am, for a trip of 2 hours.
Car: Take the Jingshen Highway and exit at Shanhaiguan.
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