Dezhao Xiaoguan slips easily into the tried-and-true formula of the rustic, hip courtyard restaurants so prevalent around Jiaodaokou. Every cozy detail is spot on, from the antiquated doors to the requisite kittens prowling on exposed roof beams. Yet Dezhao does bring something new to the table: bobo ji (RMB 5), a popular street snack of Leshan, a southern Sichuan city and the hometown of the chef. This dish, a milder cousin of mala tang, features skewers of vegetables and meats (RMB 0.5-1 each) cooked in a chicken broth flavored by mouth-numbing peppercorn oil. Other Leshan specialties include chicken braised in a clay pot (huangmen ji, RMB 52), while Sichuan classics are reliable and tasty. The most memorable delights at Dezhao, however, may be the gamboling kittens and friendly Beijing owners.
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